Credits: Article and images by Jeremiah Chan @ Revolution Watch Magazine. See the original article here - https://revolutionwatch.com/introducing-the-h-moser-cie-endeavour-centre-seconds-concept-lime-green/
The exceptional finish is unsullied by any form of branding or time-telling dial furniture, save for the three hands. The polished leaf-shaped hour and minute hands, sensuous in their form, do a good job of telling the time of day without drawing too much attention away from the dial. But it is the purple seconds hand that has a deeper story to tell, apart from being a perfect complement to the green dial according to basic color theory. Moser watches with a purple seconds hand use the brand’s proprietary Straumann Double Hairspring, manufactured by sister company Precision Engineering AG. The Straumann Double Hairspring first debuted in 2009 and is an ingenious and absolutely elegant solution to counteract the effects of gravity on the balance. Two hairsprings, each with a Breguet overcoil, are stacked one atop the other in a 180° diametrically opposed orientation. They are pinned to the balance staff at one end and to two separate studs positioned directly opposite one another. As they vibrate in opposing directions, the effect of gravity pulling on any one point of one hairspring coil, especially when the watch is in the vertical positions, is effectively cancelled out by the vibration of the other coil. Despite the seeming simplicity of the innovation, the cost of constructing and regulating the double hairspring costs as much as making a tourbillon (imagine that!), according to Moser’s CEO Edouard Meylan in a 2015 interview with WatchTime. Understandably, the double hairspring is used sparingly and only in certain special pieces.
The rest of the caliber HMC 200, Moser’s workhorse movement, if you could call it that, is an absolute beauty. The Straumann Double Hairspring swings a free-sprung balance wheel with four timing weights, secured by a balance bridge shaped of gentle curves that brings to mind a coiffed handlebar moustache. The rest of the movement bridges are decorated with Moser stripes, a variation on Côte de Genève, with alternating thin bands at the crest and thick bands at the trough of the wave. Bridge bevels are diamond polished to achieve a distortion-free reflection at the edges. The H. Moser hallmark is engraved on the oscillating weight, which is part of a bi-directional pawl winding system. Pawl winding automatic systems, while they take up more movement real estate, are generally considered to be superior to more common reverser wheel systems. The oscillating weight is not connected directly to the automatic winding wheel train, and the system is therefore more resistant to shocks. The movement can also run for no less than three days on a full wind, which is fast becoming an industry norm. When you have a dial that is so “less is more”, it is design touches like these on the rear side that prove Moser spared no expense in designing their simple three-hand watch.
Credits: Article and images by Jeremiah Chan @ Revolution Watch Magazine. See the original article here - https://revolutionwatch.com/introducing-the-h-moser-cie-endeavour-centre-seconds-concept-lime-green/