Louis Erard and the Alain Silberstein Renaissance

Of course, this Louis Erard piece is not the only Alain Silberstein collaboration to successfully launch last week; our own Grail Watch 1, with Ressence and Silberstein also debuted and also sold out shortly after.

A good question to ask at this point is why the eponymous founder of a long-defunct brand is enjoying this level of success and, dare we say it, hype in 2022? First of all, I believe the collaborations with Louis Erard, which kicked off three years ago, are a significant factor in Silberstein’s return to favour. For sure, he had worked with other brands previously, notably MB&F, and achieved critical acclaim for his work. But those were highly limited, pricey pieces that appealed to a niche audience, who were likely already familiar with Silberstein.

The Louis Erard collaborations, on the other hand, offered something different. Priced at a few thousand francs and limited to — I believe — 178 pieces per watch, these Silberstein designed pieces allowed the spirit of Silberstein’s watchmaking philosophy to shine through. The primary colors and the funky dial touches evoked the golden era of Silberstein’s design, while avoiding the pitfall of being stuck in the past. While the dial is the clear star of the show, a lot of the credit for the relevant-feeling design is down to other choices. Take, for example, the bold, modernist titanium case, with open horns giving it an architectural feel. The nylon hook and loop straps for a casual, sporty flair.