URWERK: The Evolution

For all its upheavals, 2020 will also be known as the year that independent watchmaking came roaring back to take centre stage in the collecting community’s collective consciousness. What with Philippe Dufour’s Simplicity — the world’s most perfectly finished three-handed watch — now commanding in excess of one million US dollars, and early “Souscription” F.P. Journe watches jumping 10 times in price, independent watchmaking has certainly grabbed the auction world headlines.

But at the same time, I’d like to think there is a more honest rationale for our renewed love affair for independent horology, and that is, in times of confusion and crisis, we are even more drawn towards objects that are crafted with the greatest authenticity. We want watches made by real people whose names we know, who have become friends and whose watches resonate with a vast sincerity in approach and a totally personal philosophy in design and craft.

For this reason, independent watchmaking is more relevant than ever, and many of these brands have never had a more successful year. But if we put George Daniels, Daniel Roth and Franck Muller in his early days aside, the world of independent watchmaking is a relatively recent occurrence. Over the last 15 years, it has gained considerable momentum. And to me, there is one person in particular who is responsible for this: Michael Tay, group managing director of The Hour Glass. For me, Tay is the single greatest champion of independent watchmaking, and the individual who has curated them and spread their gospel in the way the famous gallerist Leo Castelli introduced the world to Abstract Expressionism.

Tay’s passion for independent watchmaking was formed in great part by his father, Dr Henry Tay, who, in an act that showed great foresight, bankrolled Philippe Dufour’s Grande Sonnerie project, and in so doing, gave the independent watchmaker his start on the path to becoming a legend. So, you could say, a deep affection for real watchmaking was already encoded in Tay’s blood.