Credits: Article and images by Ken Gargett @ Quill & Pad. See the original article here - https://quillandpad.com/2024/06/03/louis-roederer-champagne-collection-244-and-history/
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Louis Roederer took a rather different path than simply offering their non-vintage decorated as the new Collection wines. Jean-Baptiste established what they call the “réserve perpetuelle”.
Basically, a large and perpetually refreshed reserve wine for use in the Collection, it will act as the core for the blend for years to come. I that sense, it is not dissimilar to a sherry solera.
They began this reserve (in what I understand is one whoppingly big tank) with the 2012 vintage. So every future wine from the Collection series will have a contribution (ever decreasing, of course) of the 2012 in it, as well as everything that has followed.
They will also continue storing their standard reserve wines in large old oak vats. Those will be included in the blends, along with the “réserve perpetuelle”.
Jean-Baptiste has been quoted as saying this new procedure will bring consumers a champagne that is “more expressive” and that this was inspired by the “fight for freshness.”
Today, conditions mean that the search by the Roederer team is for freshness, rather than ripeness.
As mentioned, Jean-Baptiste brought with him the range from the Collection, including the unreleased trials that began with the 238.
The work with these wines continues. For example, malolactic fermentation began with the 238 at 60%. Over the following releases, it dropped to 49%, then 36%, 30%, back to 34% with the 242, 26% with 243, 35% with 244 and then down to 22% with 245.
The pressure in the wine was gradually increased as well, beginning with 5 atmospheres with the 238 up to 5.8 with 244 and beyond.
Time on lees is around three years each and the percentage of oak fermentation has been increased. Dosage began at 9 grams/liter and by 244, had gradually decreased to 7 grams/litre.
The percentage of the “réserve perpetuelle” was 16% with 238, then 21%, 20%, 34%, 34%, 31% to 36% with the 244. The inclusion of the standard reserves began at 7% but with the 241, that rose to 10% and has stayed there.
Personally, with 241 having the 2016 vintage as a base, my thoughts would be that it was a vintage needing all the assistance possible, but I suspect that it was also just part of the continuing march to the ideal version of Collection.
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Credits: Article and images by Ken Gargett @ Quill & Pad. See the original article here - https://quillandpad.com/2024/06/03/louis-roederer-champagne-collection-244-and-history/