Credits: Article and images by Lee Sheng @ Revolution Watch Magazine. See the original article here - https://revolutionwatch.com/wristcheck-seconde-atelier-wen-seconde-perception-%E9%94%94%E7%93%B7/
When the Hong Kong-based pre-owned watch dealer Wristcheck unveiled its collaborative limited edition, the Perception “传承”, with Atelier Wen last year, the team faced the inevitable task of discarding guilloché dials that didn’t meet expectations.
Austen Chu, Wristcheck’s founder and a keen businessman with an eye for opportunities, saw potential in these rejected dials. Recognizing the chance to breathe new life into them, Mr. Chu teamed up with Romaric André of Seconde/Seconde, known for his skill in redesigning existing dials. The result of this collaboration is the 36-piece limited edition, the Perception “锔瓷”.
How can you mend a broken dial?
When the team rejected less aesthetically pleasing guilloché dials, a deep cut was made on the dial, leaving a mark that gave it an abrupt and less presentable appearance for a watch. Naturally, these dials would be discarded or recycled, and indeed, they were. However, in an unexpected turn of events, they were recycled in situ, finding themselves back in the same watch.
While not technically shattered into pieces, the cut guilloché dials were restored using an age-old porcelain mending technique called 锔瓷 or Juci. This involves drilling tiny holes into shattered pieces of porcelain and then connecting the broken pieces together with metal pins. Originally developed to prevent the waste of porcelain or ceramic ware, this technique has evolved into an artisanal practice, where the application of more elaborate pins turns into a form of decoration.
And that’s exactly what Seconde/Seconde and Wristcheck did – applying gold pins onto the cut mark of the guilloché dial to turn it into a decoration. The result is triple crosses along the straight cut line, which looks geometrical, modern, and perhaps even “hypebeast”-ish.
That’s in stark contrast to the traditional Juci, and as expected because the dial isn’t naturally shattered in the first place. Therefore, the dial lacks the natural shatter pattern and also the organic distribution of pins. Moreover, traditional Juci doesn’t typically involve stacking the pins to create a cross pattern. Nevertheless, the application of these pins showcases a creative and effective approach to resolving the situation, resulting in a visually appealing outcome.
Another unusual aspect of the Perception “锔瓷” is the absence of branding on the dial. This decision stems from Romaric André of Seconde/Seconde’s insistence that the watchmaker, having initially rejected the dials, may not be entitled to claim them. “Your process once rejected those dials,” said Mr. André. “So don’t pretend now that they are yours!”
While the idea of an unbranded dial appears attractive as it seems to create one less interruption to the guilloché dial, the bad news is that there is a placeholder at 12 o’clock when the guilloché dial was created. The only difference between the current version and the usual version is that the placeholder wasn’t filled with any printing, resulting in a flat, empty plaque. Some may find this choice a bit awkward, at least in my personal estimation.
The Perception “锔瓷” is interesting and meaningful in many perspectives. First, it aligns with the increasingly important principles of recycling by giving the rejected dials a new lease on life, and the team deserves recognition for their efforts. Second, it draws upon traditional living philosophy and technique and presents something that’s uncommon to the modern world.
But from a philosophical standpoint, ultimately the Perception “锔瓷” represents a roundabout solution to the problem. The fundamental issue of the sub-par guilloché dials remains unresolved; the only problem addressed is the unsightly cut that marked the dials for rejection.
Additionally, the price increase of almost 50% compared to the earlier Wristcheck x Atelier Wen Perception “传承” is difficult to swallow – especially since it’s now in steel instead of titanium. This is true even when taking into account the smaller production run, the unconventional design, and the increased manual labor involved.
Wristcheck x Atelier Wen x Seconde/Seconde Perception “锔瓷” specs and price
Movement: Dandong SL1588; automatic; 41 hours power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Case: 40 mm x 9.4 mm; steel; water resistant to 100 m
Strap: Steel bracelet
Availability: Only from Wristcheck
Limited edition: 36 pieces
Price: USD 5,000
Credits: Article and images by Lee Sheng @ Revolution Watch Magazine. See the original article here - https://revolutionwatch.com/wristcheck-seconde-atelier-wen-seconde-perception-%E9%94%94%E7%93%B7/