Credits: Article and images by Raman Kalra @ Quill & Pad. See the original article here - https://quillandpad.com/2023/08/23/7-under-the-radar-watches-from-omega-zenith-iwc-jaeger-lecoultre-blancpain-girard-perregaux-and-cartier/
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Blancpain Air Command
Blancpain is known for creating the first modern diving watch and setting the standard for the industry in the early 1950s. This standard was followed by the biggest brands out there when producing their diving watches, namely Rolex with the Submariner. Blancpain receives some recognition for this, but on the whole, the brand still deserves more given how great their watches are.
The Fifty Fathoms is the natural entry point to the brand, but when you look deeper into their collection you will find the Air Command. This model is a modern iteration of the military aviation pieces Blancpain produced in the 1950s. The Air Command story is somewhat vague and that alone adds to the allure of the model. It starts in the 1950s when the French Ministry of Defence created the Type 20 standard for chronographs they could use. The set of requirements included a black dial, flyback function, small seconds and lumed indices.
Blancpain Air Command with black dial
Blancpain did not end up supplying the French military, that fell to Breguet with the aptly named Type XX. However, as Blancpain was supplying the Fifty Fathoms to the American Navy, they created a chronograph for them to try and hopefully achieve the same success. A handful of Air Commands were produced and delivered, but they were technically prototypes. According to Philipps Watches, the model was never commercialized, and the overall numbers were extremely limited.
In 2019, Blancpain decided to revive the name and produce a re-edition that paid homage to the original. It was a limited-edition piece that followed the exact requirements set by the Type 20 standard. This resulted in a flyback chronograph with a black dial and accurate details such as the Arabic numerals, bi-compax layout, pilot hands and even the dial tachymeter.
While retaining many original details and proportions, the new model brought modern case finishing and movement as expected. The case is 42.5mm in diameter and 13.8mm thick, featuring beveled edges and chamfered lugs. The bi-directional bezel is another throwback to the original and is a black ceramic insert with lume.
Propeller rotor of the Blancpain Air Command
Turn the watch over and you will see the caliber F388B nicely decorated, although the rotor is what stands out. The gold rotor is propeller-shaped and fits extremely well with the story behind the Air Command, as well as allowing a more even view of the rest of the movement.
Beyond the 2019 limited edition that proved very popular, Blancpain followed up by launching permanent references to the Air Command range. In 2021, they launched the blue dial variant in both titanium and rose gold. This retained all the details that made the 2019 limited edition a success, although the movement rotor is no longer propeller-shaped, replaced with a more traditional skeleton design.
Blancpain Air Command with blue dial
However, going for the blue dial option, the watch took on a more modern aesthetic. Notably, Blancpain decided to build out the Air Command range further in 2022 by offering smaller 36mm case options that are also thinner. Once again, all details remain present, and they have been proportioned well so there has been no loss of charm when moving to the smaller size.
The biggest issue with the modern Fifty Fathoms, the typical entry to the brand for new customers, is the size remains large at 45mm. The Air Command is the less obvious Blancpain to consider, however at 36mm and 42.5mm sizes, it can be a more wearable piece whilst allowing you to buy into the brand and its heritage.
For more information, please visit www.blancpain.com/en/air-command-collection
Girard-Perregaux 1966 – Orion Trilogy
Girard-Perregaux is best known for its Laureato collection, a modern integrated sports watch born in the 1970s, and its Bridges haute horology pieces. Another staple in their collection, however, is the 1966 range. It is a subtle collection of dress watches that focuses on simplicity and pure watchmaking. In their own words, when it comes to the 1966 collection they are focusing on producing timelessness.
Girard-Perregaux 1966 Orion with aventurine dial in pink gold
Better still, despite being a Girard-Perregaux, they are fairly priced and even more convincing when looking at the secondary market. The 1966 collection references an important year for the brand. It was at this time Girard-Perregaux released its first high-frequency movement, beating 36,000 vph known as the Gyromatic HF. This was only achievable thanks to their in-house team focused on movement development. The movement was well-recognized, winning awards including the coveted Neuchâtel Observatory Centenary Prize.
Girard-Perregaux Calibre GP3300
A year later, the majority of all chronometer certificates issued were to the Girard-Perregaux high-frequency movements. The design used to showcase this movement was as understated and elegant as it is today. The current 1966 offers various references in different sizes ranging from 30mm to 40mm in diameter, case materials and complications.
The references I want to highlight are part of the Orion trilogy, launched in 2020. What makes these three variants stand out are their aventurine dials, resembling a sky full of stars (hence the Orion naming). The trilogy is offered in stainless steel or rose gold with a blue dial or black DLC steel with a black dial for a monochromatic aesthetic. The pattern has a sparkle to it and under the light it is captivating to look at.
The references all follow the formula found in the rest of the 1966 collection with a 9.4mm thin, well-finished case.
Girard-Perregaux 1966 Orion with aventurine dial in DLC steel
The crystal is domed and only visible from the side profile, adding further depth to the watch. Elegance is further instilled by the leaf-shaped hands and fine indices that look as though they are the lines connecting a constellation. It is powered by the reliable, in-house GP3300 movement and finished to a good standard with beveled edges, engravings, and Côtes de Genève. It is the base that other brands such as MB&F use for some of their own such as the HM5.
By opting for an Orion reference, you are buying into a very well-respected brand that offers the Aventurine experience at a more affordable price point than some of the well-known competitors, namely the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia.
Girard-Perregaux 1966 Orion with aventurine dial in stainless steel
The stainless steel Orion has an RRP of £8,600 at the time of writing. Understandably, the case material difference is the main driver of price disparity, but the Girard-Perregaux is a very solid option for those captivated by the charm of the dial effect.
For more information, please visit www.girard-perregaux.com/row_en/collection/1966.html
Conclusion
Some watches are true icons and are recognized by a wide audience. Coverage of the watch industry grows with each year and as more people become captivated, these pieces only become more popular. Even as media coverage broadens, there are still some models that fly under the radar. These pieces offer a chance to buy into a brand whether it is for the quality, aesthetic, or heritage.
They are in some ways the best-kept secrets. By being so, they can be a more individual option compared to their more famous siblings and provide attractive value for money. The watches listed here are all interesting propositions and I want to make sure you are aware of them as you never know, one could be your next watch. There are many more that can be viewed in the same light and I might follow up with a part 2 in future, let me know what you think might be included.
You can read more articles by Raman Kalra at www.thewatchmuse.com.
You might also enjoy:
Rolex Submariner vs. GMT Master II: Small Differences, Difficult Decision
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique: Time to Move on From the Rolex Submariner?
Credits: Article and images by Raman Kalra @ Quill & Pad. See the original article here - https://quillandpad.com/2023/08/23/7-under-the-radar-watches-from-omega-zenith-iwc-jaeger-lecoultre-blancpain-girard-perregaux-and-cartier/
