Credits: Article and images by Tim Mosso @ Quill & Pad. See the original article here - https://quillandpad.com/2023/08/28/angelus-u41-orange-a-relatively-affordable-for-a-tourbillon-tourbillon-sports-watch/
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As a sports watch, the U41 falls on only two counts: water resistance and lume. The first is limited to 30 meters, so this is a high-and-dry active lifestyle accessory. That said, a surprising number of frighteningly expensive F.P. Journe and Richard Mille sports watches have push-down crowns and 30–50-meter water ratings, so Angelus is still in the hunt. And the luminescence is limited to the two hands, so be prepared to guess somewhat at your dimly lit crypto-influencer after-after-parties.
Casebacks on skeleton watches are less of a decision factor than on most luxury timepieces, but this brand’s lack of a track record breeds curiosity — and scrutiny. Aside from a somewhat better view of the drivetrain, the caseback highlight from a watch snob perspective will be the click assembly. Its steel spring is large, graceful, and finished to the same standards at the clutch/detent assembly on the dial side.
Additional points are awarded for the mirrored concave surrounding the ratchet wheel’s fixing screw. And the sunburst grain of the crown wheel core is striking.
That said, most of what’s present on the caseback is a qualitative parallel to the likes of IWC, Zenith, Jaeger-LeCoultre, or perhaps mainstream models from Glashütte Original. After all, something has to give when you’re selling a 25-unit limited edition tourbillon for under $100 grand.
Of interest to movement snobs is the five-position adjustment advertised on what amounts to a base plate. While Angelus makes no specific claims about accuracy, timing in five orientations is standard in most reputable chronometer tests and often appears on haute horlogerie watches with legitimate centuries of heritage. Out of curiosity, the watch was placed on a timing machine in six positions for a few minutes, and it hewed to the COSC’s -4/+6 second per projected 24 hours.
And if that’s not enough, be aware that modern Angelus watches are rare. Arnold & Son, La Joux-Perret’s larger nameplate, builds between 700 and 1,000 watches per year. Angelus’ volume typically amounts to ten percent of that. The 25-piece U41 Orange and its 25-piece U41 Blue stablemate likely were spaced over several model years.
Watch collectors who demand an immaculately finished sports tourbillon from an ancient brand can pay their six-figures for an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept. Or get AP Renaud et Papi to build one for Richard Mille and then pay up to seven-figures for the privilege. Angelus — as it exists today — doesn’t have AP’s ancient establishment credentials, but then, neither does Richard Mille.
The Angelus U41 is an attractively priced point of entry into a class of watch rarely seen outside the ranks of generational fortunes and hereditary privilege. It’s a successful upstart with nothing to offer but its tangible qualities in the here-and-now.
Perhaps even Albert von Thurn und Taxis would be impressed.
For more information, please visit https://angelus-watches.com/collections/urban-collection/u40-orange-skeleton-tourbillon
Quick Facts: Angelus U41 Orange
Reference: 0TSBT.O01A.K07OT
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; power reserve indicator, flying tourbillon
Case: 42mm x 10.2mm x 50.4mm in grade five titanium; 30-meter water resistance
Movement: manual-wind caliber A-300 with one-minute flying tourbillon, 60-hour power reserve, 4Hz/28,800 vph, five-position adjustment, 23 jewels
Production years (all variants): 2020-onwards; 25 in orange; 25 in blue
Price $34,400
* Tim Mosso is the Media Director and Watch Specialist at Watchbox.
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Credits: Article and images by Tim Mosso @ Quill & Pad. See the original article here - https://quillandpad.com/2023/08/28/angelus-u41-orange-a-relatively-affordable-for-a-tourbillon-tourbillon-sports-watch/