Credits: Article and images by Sabine Zwettler @ Quill & Pad. See the original article here - https://quillandpad.com/2023/07/27/back-in-black-3-watches-with-black-dials-from-patek-philippe-hublot-and-omega-reprise/
“I see a red door and I want it painted black. No colors anymore, I want them to turn black . . .”
When it comes to dial colors, I am with the Rolling Stones – and so are a lot of other watch enthusiasts. Recent years have proven particularly colorful in the world of watches, with a plethora of new green and blue dials; however, black is also beautiful – and black is definitely back.
Here are three charismatic examples putting black in the spotlight: the dark side has never looked so bright.
Patek Philippe Calatrava Alarm Travel Time Reference 5520P: sunburst black
We regularly hear that everything important in the realm of high horology has already been invented and nothing groundbreakingly new is being invented any more.
Well, Patek Philippe has once again proven these attitudes wrong. At Baselworld 2019, the time-honored Swiss manufacture introduced its highly sophisticated Calatrava Travel Time GMT watch with a complicated 24-hour alarm function directly integrated into the movement.
Patek Philippe Calatrava Alarm Travel Time Reference 5520P with black dial
The Calatrava Travel Time originally made its debut in 2015, marking a first in the collection and a premiere in high-end Swiss watchmaking. No surprise that Patek Philippe places the Calatrava Alarm Travel Time right into its grand complications line, on par with the brand’s most technically sophisticated timepieces – watches like repeaters, perpetual calendars, tourbillons, and split-second chronographs.
For fans of “dark” watches, the stunning ebony-black sunburst dial on this masterpiece makes it a true feast for the eyes.
While the alarm is generally not considered a high-end complication, the ingenious mechanism of the newly designed automatic Caliber AL 30-660 S C FUS, five years in the making and specifically created for this model, takes the function to a whole new level. The Calatrava Travel Time now displays a to-the-minute-accurate mechanical digital indication of the 24-hour alarm time beneath the 12 o’clock mark.
And if this is not enough, you can see whether the alarm is on or off just by looking at a tiny bell above the alarm aperture. Like the date, the alarm is coupled with the local time, a very convenient feature for travelers.
The alarm boasts excellent acoustic quality, ringing powerfully enough to wake its owner in its classy way: its single note rings for up to 40 seconds, striking a gong 2.5 times per second.
The Calatrava Travel Time’s mechanism is not unlike that of a minute repeater: a centrifugal governor beneath a bridge ensures regular and sustained strikes. As such it requires considerable energy to sustain the cadence, so it is equipped with its own separate spring barrel wound by its own crown at 4 o’clock. A built-in clutch prevents inadvertent overwinding.
Bright, luminous hands and numerals on the dial of the Patek Philippe Calatrava Alarm Travel Time Reference 5520P
All hands on deck
First introduced in 1997, the brand’s travel time function employs two central hands to indicate local and home time. While the home-time hour hand is skeletonized, the minute and hour hands showing the local time are filled with Super-LumiNova for maximum legibility in the dark – as are the bold Arabic numerals contrasting against the lustrous black background.
These hour hands are paired with two day/night indicators in small round apertures – at 3:30 for home time and at 8:30 for local time. Thus, this GMT watch offers a clean and almost intuitive layout that is hard to top.
I am particularly fond of the bold numerals in vintage-pilot style and the prominent date subdial at 6 o’clock.
Patek Philippe’s automatic Caliber AL 30-660 S C FUS in the Calatrava Alarm Travel Time Reference 5520P
Although the view of the dial is fascinating, turning the Calatrava Travel Time’s platinum case over rewards us with an unimpeded view of Caliber AL 30-660 S C FUS, comprising no less than 574 components despite its height of just 6.6 mm.
Looking through the sapphire crystal, you discover the wealth of Patek Philippe’s painstakingly executed decorations and finishes as well as the silent governor beneath the gilded Calatrava cross.
As an aside, the Calatrava Alarm Travel Time is the manufactory’s first grand complication housed in a water-resistant case, making it suitable for everyday use.
Patek Philippe Calatrava Alarm Travel Time Reference 5520P with black dial
I believe that Patek Philippe has once again raised the bar of high-end horology designed for easy, everyday use with this clever combination of complications wrapped in tasteful vintage-pilot design.
For more information, please visit www.patek.com/en/collection/grand-complications/5520P-001.
Quick Facts Patek Philippe Calatrava Alarm Travel Time Reference 5520P
Case: 42.2 x 11.6 mm, platinum
Movement: automatic Caliber AL 30-660 S C FUS, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency, power reserve max. 52 hours, Patek Philippe Seal
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; date, 24-hour alarm, alarm on/off indication, two time zones, day/night indication for local and home time
Price: €204,050
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Credits: Article and images by Sabine Zwettler @ Quill & Pad. See the original article here - https://quillandpad.com/2023/07/27/back-in-black-3-watches-with-black-dials-from-patek-philippe-hublot-and-omega-reprise/
