Credits: Article and images by Ken Gargett @ Quill & Pad. See the original article here - https://quillandpad.com/2023/12/13/bartolo-mascarello-not-just-a-great-italian-winery-but-one-of-the-worlds-great-wineries/
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The Liv-ex site compared scores for some of the recent top vintages of the Barolo.
VINTAGE | VINOUS | WINE ADVOCATE |
2018 | 94 | 97+ |
2017 | 94 | 96 |
2016 | 98+ | 100 |
2010 | 100 | 96 |
2009 | 94 | 94 |
These are serious scores in any language, though I must say that I’d be inclined to align more closely with the Advocate (although their score for the 2010 seems a little harsh). The general dislike of the 2018 vintage as expressed by Galloni from Vinous is well known and something that baffles me. 2018 might not match 2016 or 2010, but it is surely a brilliant year. I would have no hesitation in stocking my cellar with any number of 2018 Barolo.
I asked about vintages. The current 2019 is considered as “classic”. 2021 will be another superb year. Usually it is the ’even’ years, with 2004, 2006, 2008, 2010, 2012 and 2016 are all excellent, as is 2005. I have mentioned 2018.
The wines
We tasted the current releases and what a collection! Prices will vary around the world, but for the Barolo, say £400, US$500 or A$800, if you are lucky. It could well be considerably more. I have given scores, but they are almost irrelevant. Grab whatever you can (afford to) get.
Dolcetto d’Alba 2022 – This had seen nine months in wood. Notes of spices, strawberry jam and cherry pit notes. Bright and vibrant with a lovely fresh nose. This is seamless with a lovely lingering finish. Finely balanced, enjoy it any time over the next half dozen years. 92.
Freisa 2021 – Such a silky wine. spices, dry herbs, raspberries, and roses. Soft acidity, a wine of medium length and very fine tannins. This is a delightful example of the variety. Supposedly related to Nebbiolo, Freisa is Italian for strawberry and it is easy to see why.
Apparently, there are only about ten producers still making the variety, which seems a shame. The variety is usually made as a slightly sweet sparkler. This is the second vintage at Mascarello where they have made it as a still wine, a move apparently brought about by climate change. 91.
Barbera d’Alba 2021 – Mascarello is well known for usually using just their own grapes from their vineyards, but here they did purchase supplies. The reason is because their vineyard is in the process of being replanted. It will be until 2026 before they have their own Barbera grapes again. The last vintage made from their own grapes was 2019, which just happened to be the wine we had on the table when Maria Teresa arrived at the restaurant – and what a wonderful Barbera it was.
I know that there is some ambivalence over Barbera as a wine, but the scales fell from my eyes on this recent visit. Barbera can be a wonderful wine. A friend says, ‘How can you not like Barbera? It would be like not liking puppies’.
This was focused and fresh, full of red fruits. A hint of a saline line running the length, carrying the flavors and adding to the vibrancy. Some complexity here with notes of raspberries, tobacco leaf and plums. Good floral characters. Bright acidity and excellent length. Supple and seamless.
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Credits: Article and images by Ken Gargett @ Quill & Pad. See the original article here - https://quillandpad.com/2023/12/13/bartolo-mascarello-not-just-a-great-italian-winery-but-one-of-the-worlds-great-wineries/