Credits: Article and images by Ken Gargett @ Quill & Pad. See the original article here - https://quillandpad.com/2024/01/26/billecart-salmon-nicolas-francois-2008-absolutely-sensational-champagne/
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Le Clos Saint-Hilaire is a Blanc de Noirs (100% Pinot Noir vinified in oak casks and then spends 14 years on lees. It comes from one hectare of vines that were planted in what was the family mansion’s park at Mareuil-sur-Ay. Low dosage. It has been made since 1995, but in tiny quantities, usually around 3,000 bottles.
At this Clos, the Billecart team embraces biodynamics, something that they are looking to extend across all vineyards. For many, Le Clos Saint-Hilaire is the greatest Blanc de Noirs made in the region, although Krug and Bollinger may wish to challenge that.
Cuvee Elizabeth is a superb Rose, first created in 1988. It is a blend of 50% Pinot Noir from Montagne de Reims and the Grande Vallée de la Marne, and 50% Chardonnay from Côte de Blancs.
Cuvee Nicolas François was first created with the 1955 vintage, although until 1964, it was not named as such (so it is the 1964 that is considered the first release). A 60/40 blend of Pinot Noir from Montagne de Reims and Vallee de la Marne (Ay, Verzenay, and Mareuil-sur-Ay) and Chardonnay from the Côte de Blancs (Mesnil, Chouilly, and Cramant), the usual production sits around 50,000 to 60,000 bottles, not a lot for a thirsty world.
There is usually a partial malolactic fermentation, and the wine will see at least a decade on lees.
The 2008 hails from 83% Grand Crus and 17% Premier Crus. Dosage is just 2.9 grams/litre. 17% was vinified in oak barrels. This vintage enjoyed more than twelve years on lees. Interesting to note that the dosage for this wine is now considerably less than half the dosage employed in wines like 1975 and 1986. As is the Billecart way, each parcel is vinified discretely.
Must is settled and clarified, not once but twice, and then chilled to 5°C. Gross lees are removed and the wine is allowed to warm slightly, to begin fermentation. Back in the era of the ‘59 and ‘61, the wine underwent barrel fermentation. This was stopped but re-introduced in the 1990s (1998).
Cuvee Nicolas François is released in only top vintages, though conditions have allowed that to happen far more often than in the past. After the famous trio of 1988, 1989, and 1990, we saw 1991, a year released by very few houses.
Since 1995, the House has released this wine in every vintage, except 2001 and 2003, 2004 and 2005, up to this latest, 2008.
The House experimented with blocking malolactic fermentation in 1990 and took it further in 1998. That was also the first vintage to see the inclusion of a small percentage of barrel fermentation (5%), the House having made the move to stainless steel in the 1960s. It was with the 1998 vintage that time on lees began to be extended and dosage reduced.
Readers will not be under any illusions as to how highly I regard the 2008 vintage in Champagne. For me, 1988 and 2008 are the greatest vintages of the last forty years. One suspects that this is the very last release of a 2008 champagne, aside from those that are late-disgorged. Don’t miss it.
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Credits: Article and images by Ken Gargett @ Quill & Pad. See the original article here - https://quillandpad.com/2024/01/26/billecart-salmon-nicolas-francois-2008-absolutely-sensational-champagne/