Credits: Article and images by Tim Mosso @ Quill & Pad. See the original article here - https://quillandpad.com/2024/02/24/de-bethune-dbd-re-edition-evergreen-reviewed-by-tim-mosso/
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From a decorative standpoint, the DBD reflects several of its maker’s standard tropes. The barrel bridge, while often noted for its resemblance to Star Treks’ Starfleet Command logo, officially reflects Flageollet’s admiration for a particular fallen leaf he encountered on a hike in the hills surrounding his Swiss home.
Another officially proffered premise is the bridge’s “upward” orientation as a symbol of advancing technology and standards at the brand. Objectively, the visible bridge is a decorative striped cap on the lower barrel bridge. In the same vein, the black-polished steel base surrounding the barrel bridge is a cap on the functional base plate.
At center, a poli noir bridge acts as the upper anchor for the fired blue steel pare-chute springs. The two-tone white-and-blue is a striking treatment that glorifies this functional innovation, and it serves a secondary purpose of cloaking the central seam where the two mirrored halves of the barrel bridge cap meet. Not only is the pare-chute bridge exquisitely reflective, but its narrow flanks sport an impressively rounded hand-bevel.
The chamfering on the bridges is equally bright, rounded, and artisanal; this is no perfunctory milling-wheel anglage. Each of the jewel sinks gleams with additional reaming and polish.
The undoubted aesthetic highlight is the fully rounded and specular finished balance bridge. While most of the DB2044 is finished to an outstanding degree, the bridge is one component where De Bethune flashes its ability to match the likes of Greubel Forsey, Romain Gauthier, and Voutilainen.
There are four “knuckles” where the bridge’s arms join the jewel cup and the flanking jewel settings; get close and marvel at how evenly drawn and sharp these steel seams are! Confined areas like these tend to expose compromises in skills or standards at even the best brands.
With a total of 39 historic examples in circulation and 33 modern-day units scheduled for delivery through at least 2025, the DBD will remain a rarity even by De Bethune standards. It’s not a hype watch, but it’s also not democratically priced at $120,000. It remains my grail watch in the literal sense: coveted and unobtainable. For wealthy collectors who prize quality and eschew social media validation, the green DBD is a red-hot ticket.
For more information, please visit www.debethune.ch/en/collections/db-kind-two-2/evergreen
Quick Facts: De Bethune DBD Re-Edition Evergree
Reference Code: DBDRE
Case: 42.7mm in titanium grade five, 11.7mm thick, 45mm lug-to-lug; 30-meters WR, screw down crown, dimple-style pusher adjusters for calendar.
Clasp: Titanium pin buckle
Dial: Côtes de Genève; evergreen, linear calendar, minutes, hours
Movement: Caliber DB2044, manual wind with 120-hour power reserve, twin barrels, 4Hz escapement, jumping hour, linear triple calendar, patented shock protection, patented overwind protection, patented hairspring design, patented titanium/white gold balance, 30mm diameter, 29 jewels; silicon escape wheel
Functions: Jump hour, digital inline triple calendar, scrolling minutes
Limitation: 20 pieces
2024 Retail Price: $120,000
* Tim Mosso is the media director and watch specialist at Watchbox. You can check out his very comprehensive YouTube channel at www.youtube.com/@WatchBoxStudios/videos.
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Credits: Article and images by Tim Mosso @ Quill & Pad. See the original article here - https://quillandpad.com/2024/02/24/de-bethune-dbd-re-edition-evergreen-reviewed-by-tim-mosso/