Credits: Article and images by Tim Mosso @ Quill & Pad. See the original article here - https://quillandpad.com/2023/09/09/h-moser-endeavour-perpetual-calendar-tantalum-blue-enamel-its-stunning/
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While “hacking seconds” shouldn’t count among the standout features of an $82,500 watch, the sheer number of haute horlogerie group and independent brands without such a function places Moser in surprisingly rarefied company. Additional pleasing details include a supple kudu-leather strap. If, like the author, you required a Google search to visualize that animal, then you are sadly not in rarified company.
Moser manufacture Caliber HMC 800
Finish of the caliber is price appropriate. It is well known that brands such as Moser and Journe work diligently to strike a balance between finishing detail and retail pricing. Along with major group brands like AP, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and other undeniably elite-tier outfits, Moser attempts to balance production realities with decorative ambition.
Consequently, Moser blends elements of hand-finish and machine finish throughout. Upon close examination, bevels are machined with bite-marks still evident from the milling tools. The base plate is clean but largely nondescript. Screws are black-polished but not elaborately beveled within their slots or around their circumference. The large setting lever for the leap year is brushed but not beveled. Frankly, this is OK. The execution is price-appropriate, and the architecture picks up where the finishing details leave off.
H. Moser Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tantalum Blue Enamel
Moser employs distinctive architectural features that recall its predecessor company’s nineteenth and twentieth-century pocket watches. The bridges, though split for easier service, are designed to read like the three-quarter bridges of antiquity. Golden chaton cups fixed by screws retain the twin mainspring barrel arbors and drivetrain pivots. Double-crested stripes — a modern Moser signature — animate the bridges. A lovely swan’s neck click spring recalls the pocket watch epoch.
H. Moser Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tantalum Blue Enamel
Watch collectors often grasp at rational straws when attempting to justify the purchase of a watch priced like a BMW M3. As a German-Swiss watch, the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tantalum Blue Enamel certainly appeals to the rational mind. It’s technically impressive, performs useful functions, and features sensible engineering. But selecting tantalum and enamel casts practical considerations to the wind — there’s your French-Swiss Meylan family influence. Fortunately, the Swiss themselves called this contest as a draw back in 1291. Why choose when you can have both?
For more information, please visit www.h-moser.com/product/endeavour-perpetual-calendar-1800-2000/
Quick facts:
Indications: hours, minutes, (hacking) seconds, large date, power reserve, perpetual calendar
Case: tantalum and steel
Dial: Abyss blue fume over-fired enamel
Dimensions:
Movement: Moser manufacture Caliber HMC 800
Strap: Kudu leather
Water resistance:
Price: CHF 75,000-
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Credits: Article and images by Tim Mosso @ Quill & Pad. See the original article here - https://quillandpad.com/2023/09/09/h-moser-endeavour-perpetual-calendar-tantalum-blue-enamel-its-stunning/
