Marchesi di Grésy Italian wines: Rates among Barbaresco’s Greatest Grand Crus

Credits: Article and images by Ken Gargett @ Quill & Pad. See the original article here - https://quillandpad.com/2023/08/16/marchesi-di-gresy-italian-wines-rates-among-barbarescos-greatest-grand-crus/

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If we go back past 2016, 2015 is certainly highly regarded, as are 2012 and 2013. 2010 has been mentioned. 2008 and 2004 are both stellar years and before that, there was an extraordinary run of great, if different, years – 2001 back to 1996. 1990, 1989, 1982, 1978, 1974 and 1971 are the picks from even earlier.

Marchesi di Grésy Langhe Nebbiolo 2020

Looking at some of the recent di Grésy wines, 2020 Langhe Nebbiolo is from the Martinenga vineyard. It offers attractive aromas and some depth. Fermented in stainless steel, this is aged in cement for five months.

The 2020 Barbera d’Asti is from Barbera fruit from the La Serra and Monte Colombo estates and really impressed – seamless, supple and beautifully fragrant. This wine is fermented in stainless steel and then aged for five months in older barriques and some Slavonian oak casks.

Moving to the big guns, most of which I loved. All of these will benefit with further time in the cellar before opening, if you can show the requisite patience –

Martinenga Barbaresco 2017. From a half bottle, this was, for me, the disappointment. Deep red hue with a red/brown rim, there were notes of freshly baked bread and roast meats, mushrooms, dry herbs and cherry liquor notes. It was extremely tannic, very mouthpuckering and chunky. Power yes, but it lacks charm and grace. 89.

Martinenga Barbaresco 2018 – This was a cracker. Fermentation is for eight to ten days with a floating cap, with 20 to 30 days maceration (submerged cap) and daily pumpovers. Ageing is for a year in French barriques and a subsequent year in Slavonian oak.

Pale-ish garnet. Florals, red fruits, aniseed, mushrooms, red cherries, smoked meats and undergrowth. This is finer, with more finesse, good focus and impressive balance. More approachable now than the 2017, the tannins are much more satiny. Well-structured with impressive length and direction. 10 to 15 years. 95.

Gaiun Martinenga Barbarecso 2016 ($220) – The method of winemaking here is the same as for the Martinenga, but the ageing is solely in French barriques and for 28 months.

The wine is a deep garnet in color. We have notes of leather, delicatessen meats, red fruits, dry herbs, soy, tobacco leaves and florals. There is complexity already evident here. Abundant tannins, a little firmer than with some, but it is a silky palate, nonetheless. There is a touch of smoky mushrooms here, on the palate. Good acidity, attractive balance and a lingering finish. 12 to 18 years. Really good. 94.

Camp Gros Martinenga Barbaresco Riserva 2015 ($280) – Winemaking here is similar to the other two crus, but here, the maturation in wood is a year in French barriques followed by 16 months in Slavonian oak, with a further period in the bottle to ensure regulations are met.

The wine is deep maroon with red/brown edges. It has a complex nose with notes of dry herbs, bergamot, strawberries, bay leaves, warm earth, smoked meats, truffles and much more. A balanced, intense and well-structured wine, with power and concentration. It really is already indicating how complex it will be with time. This is very much the savory style. The palate also has a tiny touch of chocolate. Fine, silky tannins, good finesse and balance throughout, with bright acidity and serious length. A superb Barbaresco. Ten to twenty years. 96.

For more information, please visit www.marchesidigresy.com/i-vini