Credits: Article and images by Martin Green @ Quill & Pad. See the original article here - https://quillandpad.com/2023/10/09/martin-greens-thoughts-and-predictions-for-the-2023-grand-prix-dhorlogerie-de-geneve-gphg/
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Ladies’ Complication
Ladies Complication category finalists in the 2023 GPHG
My favorite world-time watches are made by Svend Andersen. That makes it hard for me to see the Arctic Sunrise Andersen Genève X BCHH as a ladies’ watch, as I think it can easily go both ways. As always is, the execution superb, in both form and function, and the hues of the different materials are superb. Combined, it gives a very warm proposition, which adds a nice, complimenting contrast to the center of the dial.
I would crown the Andersen as the winner, but I love how seemingly effortlessly Chopard can go into different styles without losing itself. This Imperiale Jumping Hour is superb in execution, in its heavy baroque style. I enjoy how they integrated telling time into the overall design. Even the setting, with the large brilliant-cut diamonds in the bezel, plays into the theme. Beautiful is that this Chopard is also a heavyweight in terms of its movement, which features a very impressive 8-day power reserve.
The Dior Grand Soir Automate Etoile de Monsieur Dior puzzles me, as they have done so many things so well, with an enchanting dial and beautiful diamond setting, only to ruin it by making the automaton mechanical and the movement for the timekeeping quartz. It is like Dior hasn’t entirely made the transition from fashion brand to haute horlogerie.
Gucci does that better with the G-Timeless Planetarium with diamond-studded stars, although moving diamonds are not really a complication. However, they do seem to have found a style of their own. I am curious to learn Tom Ford’s thoughts.
Among the competition, the IWC Portofino Perpetual Calendar seems rather mainstream and almost dull. I have no idea why it is considered a ladies’ watch as this IWC can easily go both ways. It is a great watch, although I prefer the charm of earlier models, which show the year in full instead of the leap year indicator on this one.
When Louis Vuitton gets creative with its watches, they go all the way, as this Tambour Fiery Heart Automate shows. This is pur sang creativity, over the top, all in, yet executed at a very high level of quality, making it literally serious fun, but just too whimsical in this version for me to consider it for the win.
Men’s
Men’s category finalists in the 2023 GPHG
I find it a bit surprising that none of the men’s watches are ordinary. The Parmigiani Tonda PF Micro-Rotor is perhaps the most standard looking, but following last year’s edition gave me a bit of an overdose of this watch.
Audemars Piguet has been so focused on the Royal Oak that they seem to have forgotten the other horological delicacies they used to serve. The Starwheel was among them, but brands like Urwerk took it to the next level, and Gorilla made it affordable. This AP Code 11.59 would make a great Gorilla or a basic Urwerk, but I feel that Audemars Piguet can do much better: they might start with taking off the seconds hand.
I have been a big fan of Ferdinand Berthoud from the beginning, yet the round case of the Chronomètre FB 3SPC doesn’t resonate as well with me as its previous design.
I have yet to experience the Xhevdet Rexhepi Minute Inerte in real life, but the ‘complication’ is a bit lost on me.
Two watches blew me away; Simon Brette’s amazing creation and De Bethune’s Starry Seas. While the De Bethune comes very close to being the perfect watch for me, I had the pleasure of seeing Brette’s Chronomètre Artisans in the metal, and it’s a true experience that deserves to win.
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Credits: Article and images by Martin Green @ Quill & Pad. See the original article here - https://quillandpad.com/2023/10/09/martin-greens-thoughts-and-predictions-for-the-2023-grand-prix-dhorlogerie-de-geneve-gphg/
