Credits: Article and images by Ken Gargett @ Quill & Pad. See the original article here - https://quillandpad.com/2023/11/09/old-very-old-vintage-bordeaux-tasting-time-traveling-with-decadence/
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I mentioned Martin’s book earlier as he has written a superb guide to the region and especially the vintages. I thoroughly enjoy his writing and he has neatly tied in events, films (such as were available), and music, showing us that wine is part of a much bigger mosaic and that we really can get a little tunnel vision when it comes to great bottles. He devotes notable space to all of these.
The details below are nothing like the order in which the bottles were served to attendees, but it makes for a convenient segregation.
All wines were served blind.
As always, with wines of this age, relying too much on any notes is fraught with danger. There is a saying – no great old wines, only great old bottles. A friend took it further – no great old bottles, only great old corks.
The first of the Bordeaux from the 19th century to be unveiled was from 1868, a creditable effort from Pichon Lalande though certainly it had enjoyed better days. A little broad and short, but I think it can be forgiven. It falls outside Martin’s designated years, so it gets no event or music.
1869 Chateau Durfort
So too, the Dufort 1869. Also drinkable, but lacking any intensity and exhibiting hints of caramel. It seems that even great Bordeaux does have a lifespan.
We looked at a pair of wines from 1884, the superb Chateau Palmer and the nearly as good Chateau Margaux. The former a classic cedary, complex, mature Bordeaux and the latter, smoky notes with good persistence. The vintage received mixed reviews at the time. The first roller coaster opened on Coney Island (you’d have to think that something more noteworthy happened, but perhaps it was a slow year).
1887 Chateau Beycheville
From 1887, Chateau Beycheville was stunning, full of life and alluring fragrances. A wonderful experience. An extremely hot vintage. It was the year that Greig wrote his Violin Sonata No 3.
1889 Pontet Canet. Quite what business a Fifth Growth had in producing a wine so truly spectacular as this is a bit beyond reasoning. A real cigar box note here and tobacco leaves. It reminded me of a great Partagas cigar.
There was still elegance and unbelievable length. Martin notes that the vintage looked like being a top one, but changes in the weather ended that.
Apparently not for Pontet Canet. It was the year of the opening of the Eiffel Tower and Mahler’s Symphony No 1.
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Credits: Article and images by Ken Gargett @ Quill & Pad. See the original article here - https://quillandpad.com/2023/11/09/old-very-old-vintage-bordeaux-tasting-time-traveling-with-decadence/
