Credits: Article and images by Ian Skellern @ Quill & Pad. See the original article here - https://quillandpad.com/2023/07/04/only-watch-2023-lots-17-32-including-my-favorite-watch-of-them-all/
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Lot 21. F.P. Journe: Chronomètre Bleu Furtif
Featuring a world premiere complete tantalum case and bracelet, the Chronomètre Furtif takes its name from the difficulty of reading the time if the watch is not facing you, as the blue enamel dial reveals the frosted numerals only in the reflection of light, whereas, the moon phase and power reserve indications are integrated into the movement and visible only on the back. It is therefore a watch whose indications can be enjoyed only by its owner.
F.P. Journe: Chronomètre Bleu Furtif
Case: Finishes: sand-blasted and polished
Dial: Translucent blue Grand Feu enamel with laser-engraved matt numerals and track — Matt blue hour and minute hands — Orange seconds hand
Caliber: New exclusive hand-wound Caliber 1522 in 18K rose gold with direct central seconds — The power reserve (56 hours) and moon-phase indications ensure perfect symmetry on the back of the movement.
Bracelet: Flat-link bracelet — Finish: sand-blasted with polished chamfers
Dimensions: Diameter: 42mm Thickness: 9.5mm
Specificities: An identical case is provided with the service after the auction if it has been damaged.
Estimate: CHF 200,000 – 400,000
For more information or to place a bid, please visit www.onlywatch.com/f-p-journe
Lot 22. Ferdinand Berthoud : Chronomètre FB 3 Only Watch
The Chronomètre FB 3 “Only Watch” is a one-of-a-kind anniversary timepiece in patinated bronze. Housed in this unique case is the world’s only calibre with a cylindrical balance spring officially chronometer-certified by the COSC.
Ferdinand Berthoud : Chronomètre FB 3 Only Watch
Case: Round case in brown patinated bronze — Sapphire ‘porthole’ at 9 o’clock — Sapphire exhibition back in sandblasted titanium — Domed sapphire crystal glareproofed on both sides
Dial: Hours and minutes peripheral inner ring and seconds subdial at 6 o’clock, in sandblasted silver-toned brass — Sandblasted and 3N gilded visible movement components
Caliber: Mechanical hand-wound movement with cylindrical balance-spring officially chronometer-certified by the COSC — Central hours and minutes display — Seconds at 6 o’clock — Power reserve: 72 hours (2 o’clock display)
Bracelet: Green alligator & brown calfskin straps — 18mm pin buckle in sandblasted titanium
Dimensions: Diameter: 42.3mm Thickness: 9.43mm
Specificities: Patinated bronze case — Sandblasted and 3N gilded visible movement components — Set of two straps in harmony with the case color
Estimate: CHF 160,000 – 180,000
For more information or to place a bid, please visit www.onlywatch.com/ferdinand-berthoud
Lot 23. Frederique Constant x Christiaan van der Klaauw: Tourbillon Planetarium Only Watch 2023
Frederique Constant and Christiaan van der Klaauw, both Dutch-founded and Dutch-led watchmaking houses, are celebrating over 20 years of horological friendship with a unique creation that combines their respective knowhow for the very first time. Frederique Constant has contributed its Manufacture Tourbillon, designed, decorated, and hand-assembled in its Geneva workshops, together with a 42mm Classic case developed by the firm, especially for the occasion.
Frederique Constant x Christiaan van der Klaauw: Tourbillon Planetarium Only Watch 2023
Case: Platinum case, 42mm, with a scratch-resistant and anti-reflective convex sapphire crystal — Open caseback — Water-resistant up to 3 ATM
Dial: Blue aventurine — Planetarium at 12 o’clock — Date and month at 9 o’clock — 60 seconds tourbillon at 6 o’clock, silver colour seconds hand — Applied silver diamond cut indexes — Hand-polished silver colour hour, minute, day and date hands
Caliber: FC-988 in-house automatic caliber — In-house hand-made decorations: chamfering, hammering, circular graining, flanks drawing, mirror polishing, engraved automatic bridge — Silicon escapement wheel and anchor — Power reserve: 38 hours — 28,800 vibrations/hour — 47 jewels
Bracelet: Blue alligator leather strap with matt finishing— Folding buckle
Dimensions: Diameter 42mm Height 13.38mm
Specificities: For the first time, Frederique Constant and Christiaan van der Klaauw have joined forces to produce this unique Only Watch 2023 timepiece. A 42mm platinum case housing the Geneva firm’s Manufacture Tourbillon, decorated and assembled by hand, and the Dutch watchmaker’s world’s smallest planetarium, on an adventurine dial.
Estimate: CHF 90,000 – 110,000
For more information or to place a bid, please visit www.onlywatch.com/frederique-constant-christiaan-van-der-klaauw
Lot 24. Furlan Marri: Furlan Marri x Dominique Renaud x Julien Tixier – Secular Perpetual Calendar Only Watch
Furlan Marri teamed up with renowned watchmakers Dominique Renaud and Julien Tixier to create an ultra-simplified, modular secular perpetual calendar. A secular module is grafted onto this perpetual calendar, making it accurate over the next 4 centuries, which make up the secular years. Of these 4 centuries, 3 will not be leap years.
Furlan Marri: Furlan Marri x Dominique Renaud x Julien Tixier – Secular Perpetual Calendar Only Watch
Case: Rhodium-plated silver case — Hand-turned lugs (as a piece of jewelry) — Hand-engraving on caseback by Coralie Mercier (Le Lieu, next to the Lac-de-Joux, Switzerland)
Dial: Blue titanium dial with an in-house anodic oxidation treatment — Hands: hand-crafted by Julien Tixier, including the Maltese cross on the central month hand — Sand-blasted plate gilded with 18K yellow gold
Caliber: G100 by La-Joux-Perret — Oscillating weight in 18K yellow gold — Module thickness: 1.25mm — Modular plate made from arcap alloy, gilded with 18K yellow gold
Bracelet: Milanese mesh bracelet in rhodium-plated silver, hand-crafted by Laurent Jolliet in Geneva
Dimensions: Diameter: 39mm Height: 11.3mm
Specificities: Ultra-simplified, modular secular perpetual calendar with 400-year leap and secular year calculation — A single corrector for the entire module — Exclusive module developed in-house and patented
Estimate: CHF 20,000 – 30,000
For more information or to place a bid, please visit www.onlywatch.com/furlan-marri
Lot 25. Gerald Genta: Only Watch 2023
Minute repeater watch with Mickey Mouse playfully indicating the time. This beloved character has played a central role in the Gérald Genta brand since the 1980s. Mr. Genta, the “Picasso of watchmaking” who gave his name to the watch brand, was bold enough to combine cartoon characters with high-complication watchmaking from 1984 onwards. This was a radical new direction in watchmaking – whimsical and daring, while undeniably keeping with an ongoing quest for excellence.
Gerald Genta: Only Watch 2023
Case: The design of the case is a contemporary interpretation of the legendary and signature octagonal case design of Mr. Genta.
Made from white gold – Water-resistant to 50 meters – Alternating polished and satin-brushed surfaces – Display caseback to admire the all-new Manufacture caliber GG-001 – Engraving Only Watch on the caseback – A red ruby cabochon is crimped into the winding & time-setting crown at 3 o’clock.
Dial: White gold with an enameled figure of Mickey Mouse playfully indicating the time and holding a birthday cake with one hand to celebrate Disney’s 100th anniversary.
Enamel grand feu: champlevé (done in house at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton by Nicolas Doublel) – The right arm of Mickey Mouse is animated and displays the minute retrograde on an arch from 0 to 60 – A guichet at 3 o’clock displays the jumping hour.
Caliber: New caliber GG-001 developed and manufactured at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton under the supervision of Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, who worked with Mr. Genta himself – Made of 394 components – Power reserve: 80 hours – Frequency: 3Hz
Bracelet: Tang buckle in white gold
Strap: Red rubber
Dimensions: Width from 3 – 9 o’clock and 6 – 12 o’clock 40mm Thickness 10.96mm
Specificities: Sketched by Mr. Genta but never concretized, this is the first time a Gérald Genta watch combines a minute repeater complication with a minute retrograde displayed by an animated Mickey Mouse – two of the most defining elements of Genta’s DNA.
Estimate: CHF 350,000 – 500,000
For more information or to place a bid, please visit www.onlywatch.com/g%C3%A9rald-genta
Lot 26. Girard Perregaux: Neo Constant Escapement Only Watch Edition
The Girard-Perregaux Neo Constant Escapement Only Watch Edition encompasses the brand’s highly inventive constant force technology. This pièce unique incorporates numerous aesthetic and technical improvements and serves to showcase the Manufacture’s technical prowess and legendary craftsmanship, all expressed in a neoteric form.
Girard Perregaux: Neo Constant Escapement Only Watch Edition
Case: Pink gold — Glass: sapphire anti-reflective ‘box’ — Case-back: sapphire crystal
Dial: Openworked dial with ring displaying suspended indexes with luminescent material (blue emission)
Caliber: Reference: GP09200-2196 — Hand-wound mechanical movement with constant escapement — Diameter: 39.5mm (171/2’’’) — Height: 7.4mm — Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour (3Hz) — Number of components: 266 — Number of jewels: 29 — Power reserve: min. 7 days (chronometric) — Functions: Hours, minutes, central seconds, power reserve indicator
Bracelet: Black rubber strap with fabric effect — Buckle: pink gold triple folding buckle
Dimensions: Diameter 45mm Height 14.8mm
Specificities: Reference 93510-52-3280-5GX — Manual, Manufacture, GP09200 — Hours, minutes, central seconds, power reserve indicator — Chronometric power reserve of minimum 7 days — Unique piece
Estimate: CHF 140,000 – 220,000
For more information or to place a bid, please visit www.onlywatch.com/girard-perregaux
Lot 27. Grönefeld 1941 Principia Mandala
For the first time Bart and Tim decided to add a hinged hunter case back to one of their timepieces, the 1941 Principia. The dial of the watch showcases a vibrant and intricate mandala design. The dial of the watch showcases a vibrant and intricate mandala design, inspired by the colorful logo of the 10th anniversary of Only Watch. A mandala is a symbol of the universe in its ideal form, it holds the power to transform a universe of suffering into one of joy.
Grönefeld 1941 Principia Mandala
Case: Grönefeld stainless steel 1941 Principia case with hunter case back — Unique engraving with the images of Bart, Tim and their father Sjef on the inside — The exterior is engraved “Grönefeld for Only Watch”
Dial: Mandala design inspired by the colorful logo of the 10th anniversary of Only Watch — We started off with 60 base dials to create one perfect dial — It took 16 clichés to print the dial, one cliché for each color — Highly polished hour markers
Caliber: Grönefeld G-06 automatic movement completely hand finished — Stainless steel bridges — Gold chatons and a 22K solid gold oscillating weight — The well-known stainless steel bridges replicate the facades of the Dutch houses
Bracelet: Salmon strap in two colors matching the dial and Only Watch 2023 logo — Stainless steel Grönefeld 1941 Principia buckle
Dimensions: Diameter 39.5mm Thickness: 11.5mm
Specificities: Hunter case back with engraving of Bart, Tim and their father Sjef — Colorful dial with mandala design — Salmon strap in two colors matching the dial and Only Watch 2023 logo
Estimate: CHF 55,000 – 65,000
For more information or to place a bid, please visit www.onlywatch.com/gr%C3%B6nefeld
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Credits: Article and images by Ian Skellern @ Quill & Pad. See the original article here - https://quillandpad.com/2023/07/04/only-watch-2023-lots-17-32-including-my-favorite-watch-of-them-all/
