Only Watch 2023 Lots 49 – 62: Including the Wildest Story (Richard Mille) and a Light Sabre Clock (Urwerk)

Credits: Article and images by Ian Skellern @ Quill & Pad. See the original article here - https://quillandpad.com/2023/07/12/only-watch-2023-lots-49-62-including-the-wildest-story-richard-mille-and-a-light-sabre-clock-urwerk/

Held every two years, the Only Watch charity auction of exclusively unique pieces has grown into THE most anticipated watch auction worldwide and features some of the most creative and innovative horology on the planet.

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In this last of the four-part series, we look at Only Watch 2023 Lots 49-62. While there are many fantastic watches here, I particularly like the imaginative story of Lot 51, the Richard MilleTalisman Origine and the space-age design of Lot 60, the Urwerk Space-Time Blade.

Only Watch 2023 Lots 49-62

Lot 49. Ressence: Type 12 OW23

The Ressence TYPE 12 Square Only Watch 2023 captures the essence of disorder and victory, with a unique DNA-inspired dial symbolising the pursuit of a cure. the dial features a blue painted DNA chain on a silver background.

The unique visual representation, combined with Ressence’s signature revolving discs, forms a two-dimensional dial design that delicately portrays the disorder and hope intertwined with Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. The TYPE 12 OW23 watch incorporates a weekly revelation. Every Sunday at midnight, when all the discs align, the dial reveals a well-aligned DNA chain, a moment that represents the hope for a cure and the progress of research.

Ressence: Type 12 OW23

Case: Polished grade 5 titanium — Double-domed sapphire crystal top with anti-reflective coating inside — Manual winding and set up via lever — Splash-resistance
Dial: Convex German silver dial with 3 eccentric biaxial satellites inclined at 3° (hours) and 4.75° (seconds and day of the week) — Hand-painted dial design — Engraved indications filled with grade A Super-LumiNova
Caliber: Patented ROCS 1.3 – Ressence Orbital Convex System – module driven by the minute axle of a customized 2892 base caliber — Caseback winding and day/time setting — Self-winding — Power reserve: 36 hours — 28,800 vibrations/hour — 40 jewels — 27 gears
Bracelet: Ardillon buckle — Blue calf leather strap (20/20mm) — Red lining with green or light blue edging
Dimensions: Diameter 41mm Thickness 11mm
Specificities: One-of-a-kind TYPE 12 — Unique DNA chain design — Blue hand-painted dial — Simplified indexes — Augmented symbolic time reading experience

Estimate: CHF 20,000 – 30,000

For more information, please visit www.onlywatch.com/ressence

Lot 50. Rexhep Rexhepi: Chronomètre Antimagnétique

The Chronomètre Antimagnétique is protected from magnetism by a Faraday cage surrounding the hand-finished movement. The dial of the Chronomètre Antimagnétique is inspired by the “scientific” dials of historical chronometers.

The design is also a subtle nod to the watch’s purpose: the alternating blocks along the hour scale are an abstract representation of the opposite polarities of a magnetic field. It features one of the rare metal cases made by Jean-Pierre Hagmann’s workshop.

Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Antimagnétique (you will have to use your imagination)

Case: A water resistant stainless steel case — One of the rare few metal cases made by Jean-Pierre Hagmann’s workshop
Dial: Inspiration from the “scientific” dials of historical chronometers — The alternating blocks along the hour scale are an abstract representation of the opposite polarities of a magnetic field.
Caliber: An original movement: easily distinguished by its brand-new layout and functions — With its symmetry and perfect finish, the Chronomètre Antimagnétique calibre is instantly recognisable as a Rexhep Rexhepi movement.
Bracelet: Leather strap — Steel pin buckle
Dimensions: Diameter 38mm x height 9.90mm without glass
Specificities: The case back is actually an external screw-down case back that can be unscrewed by the wearer to reveal a second sapphire case back. This double case back construction protects the movement from magnetism, while allowing the beauty of the movement to be admired.

Estimate: CHF 100,000 – 150,000

For more information, please visit www.onlywatch.com/rexhep-rexhepi

Lot 51. Richard Mille: Talisman Origine

A millennia ago (or more accurately, once upon a lime), in a long-since vanished society where mechanics, craftsmanship and spirituality were united, this fascinating object emerged.

Discovered in the heart of the Swiss mountains, this pendant was imprisoned for an eternity in its wooden receptacle. Nicknamed “Talisman Origine” by the research teams, this mysterious golden relic certainly encapsulated the know-how of an old Swiss tribe.

Richard Mille Talisman Origine

Case: Bezels and caseback: In satin-finished red gold. Hand-polished rims. Hand-engraved symbols — Caseband: In grade 5 titanium — Claws: In grade 5 titanium, polished and microblasted with swiss rhodonite inserts
Caliber: Caliber CRMT5 — In-house skeletonised automatic-winding tourbillon movement with hours and minutes — Baseplate and bridges made of 3N and 5N gold — Free sprung balance with variable inertia — Variable-geometry rotor
Bracelet: Necklace made of swiss briarwood, gold, titanium and rhodonite — Threaded on a metal and rubber string
Dimensions: 46.77 x 77.25 x 13.10mm
Specificities: The RMS14 goes beyond the concept of a watch — This unique piece is the essence of Swiss culture — Its case and necklace are fully hand-engraved and integrates rhodonite and wooden parts

Estimate: CHF 600,000 – 800,000

For more information, please visit www.onlywatch.com/richard-mille

Lot 52. Singer Reimagined x Genus: 8-Track

Ingenious, unexpected, and clever, the 8-Track Watch is the horological embodiment of technical excellence and childhood fun. The 8-Track Watch for Only Watch is the crossroads of time keeping passion and automotive dreams brought to life.

The 8-Track Watch is a fusion of ideas, passions, mechanics and two independent watch brands: a watch with a Singer aesthetic in a case inspired by the iconic watches of the 60s and 70s, with a deep connection to the world of motorsports; the perfect setting for the exceptional mechanics of the display complication invented by Genus.

Singer Reimagined x Genus 8-Track

Case: Material: Steel — Crystals: Sapphire with antireflective coating — Crown: Steel, position at 4 o’clock — Water-resistant to approximately 30 meters (3 ATM)
Dial: No dial. A display complication: Hours: Peripheral disc. Tens-of-minutes: Free-moving race car element hand scuplted of 18K gold circulating between two foci. Numerals & indicators: Super-LumiNova
Caliber: GxS-23-Ru, manual winding, crafted in the Genus’ Geneva workshop — Material: Brass mainplate and bridges — Components: 390 — Rubies: 26 — Frequency: 18,000 vibrations/hour (2.5Hz) — Power reserve: ~50 hours — Regulating organ: Swiss anchor escapement, variable inertia balance.
Bracelet: Leather: Smooth dark brown calf strap, perforated “racecar driver” style — Buckle: Steel, fold-over 2-part clasp
Dimensions: Diameter 43mm Thickness 15.46mm
Specificities: Singer signature design fusion with Genus in-house Haute Horlogerie movement & innovative display complication — Hand-crafted 18K gold car micro-sculpture moving on an infinity 8-shaped track — Peripheral hours indication — Crown at 4 o’clock

Estimate: CHF 100,000 – 120,000

For more information, please visit www.onlywatch.com/singer-reimagined-genus

Lot 53. Speake-Marin: Ripples Bleu Royal

The Ripples Bleu Royal watch serves as a radiant tribute to hope, with its distinct and characteristic Speake Marin blue achieved through the meticulous process of blue physical vapor deposition (PVD) with a galvanic underlayer.

The watch showcases a deeper shade of blue, artfully highlighting the placement of the small seconds subdial at 1.30 and creating a captivating interplay of subtle illumination.

Speake-Marin Ripples Bleu Royal

Case: “La City” case in stainless-steel — Front and back sapphire crystals treated with anti-reflective coating — The bezel is vertically brushed
Dial: Royal Blue Speake Marin dial with «Ripples» finishing and polished indexes — Royal Blue Speake Marin small second counter at 1.30 — Heart-shaped rhodium-plated hands
Caliber: Caliber SMA03-T20 is developed, produced and assembled by “Le Cercle des Horlogers” workshop in Switzerland. Hand-finished bridges, inner angles, rhodium plated, Geneva stripes — Power reserve: 52 hours — Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/hour – 4Hz — Jewels: 31 — Functions: Central hours, minutes and small seconds – Water-resistant to 5 ATM (50 meters)
Functions: Central hours, minutes and small seconds – Water-resistant to 5 ATM (50 meters)
Caliber: Caliber SMA03-T20 is developed, produced and assembled by “Le Cercle des Horlogers” workshop in Switzerland. Hand-finished bridges, inner angles, rhodium plated, Geneva stripes — Power reserve: 52 hours — Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/hour – 4Hz — Jewels: 31 — Functions: Central hours, minutes and small seconds – Water-resistant to 5 ATM (50 meters)
Bracelet: Strap: Integrated stainless-steel bracelet — Buckle: Stainless-steel folding buckle — The Speake Marin logo is engraved on the clasp
Dimensions: Diameter 40.3mm Thickness 9.2mm
Specificities: The Ripples Bleu rRyal timepiece is 100% made in Switzerland. It was designed by the talented Stéphane Lacroix. — Royal Speake Marin blue dial with “Ripples” finishing and polished indexes — A deep blue to reveal the small second counter at 1.30 — Movement: SMA03-T20 automatic movement with fully integrated micro-rotor —‘The Only Watch 2023, unique piece” is hand engraved and masterfully executed by Boris Nemitz.