Credits: Article and images by Martin Green @ Quill & Pad. See the original article here - https://quillandpad.com/2024/05/19/patek-philippe-calatrava-reference-6119-dressed-for-success-2/
—————————————————————————————————–
Patek Philippe Calatrava: tour de force design
Designing a new Calatrava may be one of the most difficult tasks a watch designer can be given. As a benchmark model, anything less than perfect is unacceptable. Yet determining what is perfect is nearly impossible.
![](https://wristnews.com/storage/2022/05/Patek-Philippe_Calatrava_Ref-6119G_34467.jpg)
![](https://wristnews.com/storage/2022/05/Patek-Philippe_Calatrava_Ref-6119G_34467.jpg)
Dial detail of Patek Philippe’s Calatrava Reference 6119G
On one hand, decades of pedigree must be met, while on the other the design team must use some form of crystal ball. Too much like its predecessors and there will be a disconnect with the current market, which demands something fresh.
Too progressive, and the brand is ruled out of touch with its traditional clientele. Especially in an era in when the vast majority of attention is focused on stainless steel sports watches, a brand needs to get changes just right to attract some limelight while not turning off loyal fans.
Patek Philippe did just that with two strokes of Calatrava brilliance. Three if you count the movement.
![](https://wristnews.com/storage/2022/05/Patek-Philippe_Calatrava_Ref-6119R_34256.jpg)
![](https://wristnews.com/storage/2022/05/Patek-Philippe_Calatrava_Ref-6119R_34256.jpg)
Crown, lugs, and case band of Patek Philippe’s Calatrava Ref. 6119R in pink gold
The first is going for a bezel with the traditional clous de Paris decoration, a subtle yet distinct pattern of small pyramid shapes made by a traditional guillocheur using a hand-guided tool.
Not only does this add a layer of distinctive refinement, but it also follows precedent as the clous de Paris décor (also called hobnail) has an extensive history within the Calatrava collection, including gracing a version of the first Reference 96.
The second stroke of brilliance is found in the bold dial design – bold, but not overly so. Bolder hands and hour markers are kept in check by a more subtle railroad track marking the minutes.
![](https://wristnews.com/storage/2022/05/Patek-Philippe-Calatrava-Reference-6119G.jpg)
![](https://wristnews.com/storage/2022/05/Patek-Philippe-Calatrava-Reference-6119G.jpg)
Patek Philippe’s Calatrava Ref. 6119G in white gold
The subdial for seconds at 6 o’clock is classic, but giving it a sector-style layout keeps it from looking old fashioned. The result is a dress watch with broad appeal.
It is interesting to note that Patek Philippe opted for a 21 mm lug width. This is quite substantial given that the case diameter is a very wearable 39 mm.
From a design point of view, this is an essential part of Reference 6119. Most 39 mm watches would have an 18 mm lug width because with anything larger the brand runs the risk of making the watch look smaller than it actually is.
![](https://wristnews.com/storage/2022/05/Patek-Philippe_Calatrava_Ref-6119R_34181.jpg)
![](https://wristnews.com/storage/2022/05/Patek-Philippe_Calatrava_Ref-6119R_34181.jpg)
Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 6119R in pink gold
Patek Philippe achieved the opposite, and that’s thanks to the shape of the lugs, which have been kept elegant and rather slim with clear curvature toward the straps.
Visually, this plays a small trick with the mind, making the watch look larger. This is what is so cool about dress watches: fractions of a millimeter can make or break the design.
—————————————————————————————————–
Credits: Article and images by Martin Green @ Quill & Pad. See the original article here - https://quillandpad.com/2024/05/19/patek-philippe-calatrava-reference-6119-dressed-for-success-2/