Simon Brette Makes His Debut with the Chronomètre Artisans Souscription

The base plate and three-quarter bridge are made in ruthenium-treated brass and feature a finely frosted finish, enabling greater contrast with the black-polished steel parts. Echoing the layout of the barrels, the three-quarter bridge is beautifully shaped to create four interior angles. The jewels for the centre wheel and balance staff sit deeply within mirror-polished gold chatons while the screws, like those on the front, are concave and mirror-polished. But perhaps the most distinctive and unusual features are the crown and ratchet wheels which feature wolf’s teeth, an anachronistic but appealing detail rarely found in modern movements. Particularly attractive is the crown wheel which is equipped with a pair of integrated, winding click springs that resemble those found in grande sonneries. The crown wheel is designed with internal teeth that is locked by these springs, serving as the winding click. The ratchet wheels themselves are strikingly finished with a brushed surface followed by a deep polished recess.

Ultimately, what the Chronomètre Artisans Souscription does exceptionally well is demonstrate the symbiotic relationship between movement design and finishing, emphasizing the importance of each in elevating the other to the level of art. As a debut watch, it is deeply impressive. As you might have guessed from the name, the Chronomètre Artisans Souscription is sold on a subscription basis. It is limited to 12 pieces with a price tag of CHF 50,000 and at the time of writing, all of which have already been spoken for. A production version will be unveiled at the end of the year. The fact that the watch pictured here is a prototype and is already so remarkable reinforces the point that Simon is one to watch.

Movement: Hand-wound caliber SBCA; power reserve of 72 hours; 2.5Hz or 18,000vph
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Case: 39mm x 10.5mm; Zirconium
Dial: 5N Red gold; engraved by hand; flame-blued hands
Strap: Textured calfskin and a folding clasp, as well as one with a tang buckle
Price: CHF 50,000 before taxes
Availability: 12 pieces, all allocated