Credits: Article and images by Raman Kalra @ Quill & Pad. See the original article here - https://quillandpad.com/2024/03/10/the-case-for-quartz-luxury-watches-featuring-f-p-journe-grand-seiko-and-accutron-2/
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Grand Seiko SBGV245
The final quartz example that goes above and beyond differs from the previous two. It is not unique to a single model but found in a number of variations from time-only pieces to GMTs. I am talking about the Grand Seiko 9F movement, and the example here is the SBGV245 “Grey Beast.” The example is chosen purely based on my preference for how it looks.
Grand Seiko goes the extra mile in terms of quality across the board, and that includes their quartz 9F movement. The brand views the movement in the same light as its most impressive mechanical and Spring-Drive calibers. The idea is quality should not be compromised, and they are designed to be serviced and maintained for lifelong use.
So how do they achieve this? Firstly, they grow their quartz. Quartz is obviously an important aspect of the movement as it is the driving force behind timekeeping. They grow and age quartz crystals for three months, only selecting the highest quality to be used in the end product.
To ensure the precision of the selection process, each quartz is tested for its response to temperature fluctuations, which can affect accuracy. Once the crystal’s response to temperature is understood, it is paired with an integrated circuit programmed specifically to match that quartz. This is then tested as a movement, and any deviations in the oscillation frequency are quickly resolved to result in accuracy that far exceeds standard quartz watches.
The Grand Seiko 9F, for example, is capable of +/- 10 seconds per year, compared to a basic quartz caliber that can manage +/- 15 seconds per month.
But the innovation doesn’t stop there.
A common complaint with quartz watches is that the hands don’t always line up with the indices, but Grand Seiko has addressed this with an engineering feat called the “Backlash Auto-Adjust Mechanism.” This feature utilizes a dedicated gear with a hairspring that applies a small amount of force to the hands, ensuring that they land on the indices perfectly every time, while also keeping the second-hand movement sharp and stable.
Additionally, the movement produces enough torque to drive broad hands, rather than requiring thin, light ones, resulting in the same level of craftsmanship found in mechanical watches. All of this is housed in a durable, full-metal case with jewels, emphasizing the watch’s longevity and serviceability.
The Grand Seiko 9F movement can be found in a range of models across the brand’s lineup, allowing for customization and personalization. For example, the SBGV245 “Grey Beast” model features a beautiful grey dial contrasting with Zaratsu-polished indices, and a case that mixes brushed and polished surfaces to create depth and interest.
The watch’s finishing is truly impressive, and must be experienced in person to be fully appreciated. While this specific model is no longer in production, other options are available, with prices starting at around $2,700 (ref. SBGX261).
Quartz watches have struggled to overcome their association with cheaper pieces and the “Quartz Crisis” that nearly destroyed mechanical watches altogether. However, brands like Grand Seiko are taking quartz seriously and pushing the boundaries of technology within them.
Beyond these examples, other luxury brands such as Omega, JLC, and Cartier offer quartz options, providing a range of choices for consumers. Perhaps it’s time to reconsider the potential of quartz in the context of high-end brands.
Would you ever consider a luxury quartz watch over a mechanical counterpart?
You can read more articles by Raman Kalra at www.thewatchmuse.com.
* This article was first published 16 April 2023 at The Case for Quartz Luxury Watches: Featuring F.P. Journe, Grand Seiko and Accutron
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Credits: Article and images by Raman Kalra @ Quill & Pad. See the original article here - https://quillandpad.com/2024/03/10/the-case-for-quartz-luxury-watches-featuring-f-p-journe-grand-seiko-and-accutron-2/