The NOMOS Glashütte Ahoi Neomatik 38 Date Sand And Sky Editions

For fans of German watchmaking, the release of the NOMOS Glashütte Ahoi neomatik 38 Date Sand and Sky models is big news. Why? Because this is the first time the brand’s flagship automatic with date has been released in a sub-40mm case.

When I received the press release for these novelties, I sat in silence and studied the technical information and images side by side for a long time. I was stunned. As I write this, I still am. I’m not sure I thought what NOMOS has achieved with these new 38.5mm Ahoi models was possible. But it would seem, it is not only possible to do, but possible to do very, very well indeed.

Up until this point, NOMOS Glashütte’s famously wide DUW 6101 automatic date caliber (which measures 35.2mm uncased) has never been fitted to a case below 40mm in diameter. It has been seen in 42mm housings (the Club and Tangente Sport models), 41mm (the Autobahn family), and even 40.5mm cases (the Tangente, Ludwig, Orion, and Metro versions), but never in a sub-40mm skin. I had (wrongly) assumed that was because it simply wouldn’t fit. And, although we now know that it most definitely does fit, I’m not sure I quite believe it just yet.

The Low Down

I would describe this release as “the magic trick nobody asked for because nobody realized they were able to.” It’s a curveball from left field. Not only do we have a (massive) 2mm reduction in diameter for a watch powered by the DUW 6101 (which is probably NOMOS Glashütte’s greatest ever technical achievement), we have it in the Ahoi collection, of all things.

The Ahoi is NOMOS Glashütte’s “dive-inspired” watch. It is not a dive watch by any technical metric but it draws design cues from the beach and the ocean, has a screw-down crown, prominent crown guards, and an unnecessary but welcome and reassuring 200m water resistance.

Simply put, in my opinion, these two NOMOS Glashütte Ahoi models are engineering miracles. They are a gift to the industry and a jaw-dropping addition to the brand’s catalog. If that sounds like hyperbole, remember we’re talking about a brand whose story began just 33 years ago and only became a true manufacture with the release of the DUW 6101’s time-only forerunner, the DUW 3001, in 2015. In Glashütte, change happens slowly. Novelties are often incremental updates to existing lines. Colors may change but new models and technical leaps forward are rare. Seeing the brand’s most sophisticated caliber now paired with a more wearable case size while retaining adequate hardiness for everyday wear is a big deal. It might make these new models (and I can’t believe I’m saying this) the best pieces the brand has ever produced.

IMHO

 I never cared for the Ahoi that much before this release. The 40.3mm automatic was a bit bulky for my tastes, and while the 36.3mm neomatik model (powered by the 3001) is gorgeous, it was just too small for my wrist. Now, out of nowhere, I might have to put this new release right at the very top of my wishlist.

But which color to choose between the fetching (and trendy) sky blue or the slightly metallic “sand” dial? Initially, I gravitated towards the blue, because it is a beautiful color, but, rather quickly, the sand started to grow on me.