Credits: Article and images by @ Quill & Pad. See the original article here - https://quillandpad.com/2023/07/07/titanium-vs-stainless-steel-watches-beyond-the-silvery-surface/
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Weight
Weight is the most commonly known difference between titanium and stainless steel – titanium watches weigh less thanks to their lower density. The density of grade 2 and 5 titanium is 4.5g/cm3 and 4.43g/cm3 respectively whereas 316L stainless steel is 7.99g/cm3. This is one of the main benefits of titanium and strength to weight ratio is the reason why we see it used in the aviation industry for example.
Depending on the watch, titanium watches can be anywhere between 30-50% lighter than a stainless steel version. Consider the Omega Planet Ocean: the full titanium, 43.5mm Planet Ocean on a bracelet weighs 140g whereas the stainless steel counterpart in 43.5mm is 216g. The weight of the titanium watch is 65% of the stainless steel. These measurements include all of the other details such as movement, indices and bezel, but it demonstrates the point.
De Bethune DB28 in titanium
When it comes to wearing a watch, a titanium watch can disappear on the wrist given the lightness. This goes against everything we are wired to think. Heavier is often associated with better quality, just consider the extra heft of gold or platinum. Yet with titanium, this is reversed. I have to say my personal preference is shifting towards wanting something lighter and more wearable in general. Whether this is something that appeals to you is personal
Mechanical Properties
You may be wondering how the mechanical properties are worth considering and can affect your experience of watches, but they can. We have touched on the strength of titanium but putting it into context we will consider the tensile strength i.e., how much stress can a material go through before breaking. Stainless steel is 515MPa whereas grade 5 titanium is 1170MPa (MPa denotes the unit megapascal which is a unit of pressure).
Grade 5 titanium is also harder with a score of 349HV on the Vickers scale compared to 316L stainless steel at 152HV. Grade 2 has a Vickers hardness of 145HV meaning it is the same as 316L steel and explains why some brands look to coat their titanium to improve the surface hardness. This highlights why surface scratches may be more visible on grade 2 titanium and grade 5 is much more resistant.
One of the most underrated aspects of titanium, however, is its high heat transfer efficiency. This is notable as it means titanium watches tend to remain roughly one temperature. The watch does not get hot in the heat, nor does it feel cold in the morning when you put it on. It is a small, yet noticeable benefit that helps add to the overall comfort of the wrist when you are wearing a watch daily.
Once again, this is more noticeable with grade 5 titanium given its thermal conductivity. Grade 5 has a thermal conductivity of 6.7W/m-K compared to grade 2 titanium and 316L stainless steel at 16.4W/m-K and 14-15.9W/m-K respectively. But thermal conductivity isn’t the only factor to consider; heat capacity and density also play a role, and titanium is lower than stainless steel in both.
As a result, both grades of titanium tend to not get either too hot or cold.
There are other advantages of titanium such as its high corrosion resistance, meaning that the watch will not react in seawater and swimming pools (as well as to acids but hopefully that is not a regular occurrence for anyone.)
The final point to make here is that titanium is hypoallergenic. Titanium does not contain nickel unlike stainless steel and those with nickel allergies can have a reaction to 316L for example.
Beyond titanium not containing nickel, the outer oxide layer that forms does not react with skin providing an extra level of protection. Thankfully, this is not something I experience, but it is worth highlighting for those that might. Putting together all these small benefits, it is easy to see why watchmakers adopted titanium as a viable material to use for watches.
Price
There are pros and cons of both titanium and stainless steel. The one final factor we have yet to consider though is price. We are starting to see more titanium watches come up at price points that overlap with stainless steel watches. However, if we look at the same watch in two different materials, titanium is still more expensive. Using the same Omega Planet Ocean example, the titanium time-only on the bracelet is £8,500 compared to the stainless steel variant at £6,500 (correct as of April 2023).
Percentage of titanium cased watches sold
We could just consider the raw material cost, but the reality is both stainless steel and titanium are not that high when compared next to the retail price of luxury watches. The majority of the cost of watches comes from development and production, whether it be manufacturing, assembly, or finishing and machinery costs.
Titanium falls victim to this. Working with titanium is challenging. The heat transfer efficiency means the surrounding areas heat up rather than the metal absorbing heat. Titanium doesn’t soften as it heats up whereas stainless steel does, so machinery needs to be appropriate to deal.
Finally, the finishing of titanium requires extra work given the hardness of the material – this should also be a consideration in long-term ownership as if you do badly scratch your watch, it will be more expensive to correct.
Production costs are also worth considering when you look at two models made from these materials. The number of watches produced by each should be taken into account. Typically, titanium watches will be produced in lower volumes (harder material to work with and fewer dial options for example) and to account for this, brands will need to charge more to meet their costs. How much is anyone’s guess, but just an extra consideration to take into account.
I conducted a quick analysis to see whether this price differential has changed in any way by comparing the retail prices for the Omega Planet Ocean from 2012 to April 2023. The price difference in 2012 for the stainless steel bracelet model compared to titanium was $2,400, while today is $2,100.
Similarly, the price between the Tudor Black Bay and Pelagos was €1,100 in 2012 and today €500 (I acknowledge the currency difference, but I had to rely on data readily available online). This is based on the Black Bay 41mm vs. Pelagos 42mm. There are several other pairs to test and this is just to gain a rough anecdotal picture.
There may be higher-end watches that have seen a different dynamic. But it seems as though there has been a slight compression between stainless steel and titanium variants, albeit a small one.
Why Are We Seeing More Titanium Watches Now?
If titanium watches are nothing new, then why does it feel like we are seeing more being released in the last 2 years? There have been titanium launches from Rolex, Tudor, A. Lange & Söhne, Audemars Piguet, IWC and Oris. Even microbrands like Baltic are even using titanium.
IWC Ingenieur in steel (left) and titanium
In my view, there are several factors contributing to the increasing popularity of titanium watches, including shifts in consumer preferences, brand investment, and diversification. In recent years, there has been a large influx of people who are now interested in watches. Social media has played a significant role by exposing more people to a wider variety of watches, as well as leading to a rise in luxury timepieces being seen as a status symbols. Additionally, secondary market prices for watches have led to more people considering them as a standalone asset class.
While well-known brands like Rolex and Audemars Piguet have seen the most significant uptick in demand, the broader consumer base for watches has led to an increase in demand for watches with unique features. Titanium gives you that. It offers a distinct aesthetic and level of individuality, similar to watches with colorful dials. To some degree, it is also another addition to the spec sheet.
Further, it feels as though the confidence to try the material has increased. With prices getting closer and a strong secondary market, more “risks” can be taken.
If you don’t like a watch you purchased, the market is deeper than ever to rectify that. From a brand’s perspective, if investments have been made into acquiring the necessary production equipment, it makes sense that they use it. Rolex is the prime example of this, having positioned itself to produce titanium watches and launching the Rolex Deepsea Challenge in 2022, followed by the titanium Rolex Yachtmaster I at Watches & Wonders 2023.
I believed it would take longer for us to see Rolex use titanium outside of the Deepsea Challenge, but having invested in the production line, it is not a surprise that they want to capitalize on it. Moreover, having the necessary equipment to work with titanium allows a brand to diversify its collection, whether it is to produce an exact aesthetic or build out current models to offer something “new” with relative ease.
I am not saying that this is anything particularly groundbreaking, but coupled with consumer demand being higher and faster (the demand for new products with shorter intervals), it can help explain why titanium is becoming more popular.
Conclusion
Watches made from different materials are nothing new, however, as we start to see a wider variety, deciding what case material you want on your next watch becomes more important. Titanium is one of the go-to materials for brands given its unique properties and longevity. Comparing it to stainless steel highlights several pros and cons, but many of them are down to your preference.
Are you looking for a lighter watch with a darker shade of grey that may scratch more easily but also “self-heal”? These are all questions that you will need to consider, particularly as titanium watches become more affordable and accessible.
I’m still torn between stainless steel and titanium. While I would love to own a titanium watch, ultimately, my decision will still come down to which model I prefer aesthetically…for now.
Let me know your thoughts and preferences in the comments below.
You can read more articles by Raman Kalra at www.thewatchmuse.com.
You might also enjoy:
Here’s Why: Stainless Steel Is The Most Precious Metal
6 Steel Sports Watch Options That Are Both (Relatively) Affordable And Definitely Obtainable
False Scarcity And Steel Sports Watches: A Collector’s View.
Credits: Article and images by @ Quill & Pad. See the original article here - https://quillandpad.com/2023/07/07/titanium-vs-stainless-steel-watches-beyond-the-silvery-surface/
