Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222: I Never Thought I’d Want This Watch So Badly

Credits: Article and images by Joshua Munchow @ Quill & Pad. See the original article here - https://quillandpad.com/2023/07/08/vacheron-constantin-historiques-222-i-never-thought-id-want-this-watch-so-badly-reprise/

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Style first

Since the Historiques 222 is descended from a steel sports watch and was an early inspiration for the Overseas, it might seem that launching the first new model in 37 years would lean heavily on the “sports” aspect of the watch, but that isn’t what is driving this model. No, design and aesthetic are clearly the motivating factor for deciding to lead with a yellow gold edition.

Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222

First, yellow gold hasn’t been a popular metal in at least a couple decades, if not longer, but since the late 2010s the vintage appeal of yellow gold has brought the metal back into the limelight. The brand could have released the same watch in 4N pink gold or 5N red gold to mesh with more modern tendencies, but that changes the style of the watch and takes it out of its 1970s context.

The original 222 was also in yellow gold and so the modern version doesn’t stray from the original aesthetic, helping it stand out among other luxury sport watches currently on the market. That and the fact that most luxury sport watches are first and foremost steel. Since that is likely to follow down the line, it’s an obvious next step: leading with a splash is the way to get people to stand up and take notice.

I usually prefer the deeper color of a 5N red gold, if I even like the gold version of a watch at all, but somehow this watch hits the exact right spot for my design sensibilities at this point.

Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222

Since lusting after a variety of luxury sports watches has broadened my tastes, this watch landed in my lap(top) at just the right time. The bracelet, thin and pliable with diamond-shaped lozenge links, is in my top three favorite bracelets on the market right now, and the case details keep this watch a sleeper (again, not considering the bold yellow gold).

Since it is only 37 mm like the original and a slim 7.95 mm in height (an extra 0.95 mm thicker than the original), the size keeps it from being a beacon on the wrist. It can hide easily under a shirt sleeve or cuff.

Small details, big impact

The bezel is textured with wide flutes providing the main visual features and distinguishing the Historiques 222 with its own unique design, the bezel being something other luxury sports watches have used as a main design feature. It’s subtle considering the overall design, but it does stand out. However, there is one feature that I find is the cherry on top, the chef’s kiss for the Historiques 222: the tiny Maltese cross embedded into the surface of the case where the body meets the bracelet.

This feature is arguably rather minor, yet it has instantly become my favorite part of the timepiece: leaving it out might have caused this watch to lose most of its flair. That might be an overstatement (the bracelet is amazing and the proportions seem perfect) but that small, recessed cross is like the beauty mark that helped make Cindy Crawford famous: it’s so integral to the style that if it were gone the impact would lose something special.

It isn’t necessary by any means, but after having seen it on the Historiques 222, I can’t imagine the watch without it. I really think that small detail sets it apart as a truly luxurious sports watch, whether it is this version in yellow gold or a future piece in steel, titanium, or a different gold. The recessed cross also has changed what I consider within design possibilities; it surprised me so much that it could be the core of why I love this watch.

Back of the Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222

Using a new movement and being able to see it with a modern sapphire crystal case back was an obvious update, and improving the construction of the pins in the bracelet to make it even better is always appreciated. But keeping most of the features and design the same so that it is a very faithful interpretation, including the tiny cross, was the best decision Vacheron Constantin made for the Historiques 222.

The future for the new model isn’t fully known yet, but this first version is becoming a permanent member of the collection and is non-limited, though it will of course be limited by production. It’s also only going to be sold in boutiques so the waiting list, I’m sure, will be a long one. But if the response is good and Vacheron Constantin sees a niche within its collection that the Historiques 222 can fill, I’m sure we will see a future piece in stainless steel, white gold, two-tone, and perhaps even titanium if the material is deemed worthy.

Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222

The piece stands poised to be one of the most sought-after new watches and could give Vacheron Constantin not one but two popular integrated bracelet sports watches, moving the traditional Geneva manufacture to the head of the line when it comes to the steel sports watch game.

The Overseas is already a great collection, but it could be bolstered by an old friend to support the genre within Vacheron Constantin. My next goal is to get my hands on this piece since I was sadly unable to attend Watches and Wonders 2022, and based on the vociferous response that may be a difficult task indeed. But by the looks of this watch, it’ll be worth the hunt to try and scratch that itch, even if just for a few minutes.

While I hunt, let’s break it down!

Wowza Factor * 9.91 How simple a watch to provide such a surprise wowza!
Late Night Lust Appeal * 99.1» 971.839m/s2 This lust has been building since before I was born so it’s unsurprising that it’s so strong!
M.G.R. * 56.4 The purpose of the watch is more about the style, but the movement is a very solid modern automatic movement that meets the standards for the Geneva Seal!
Added-Functionitis * Minor The piece has a date function, a useful feature that I appreciate even if people often wish for watches without them. With that addition you can seek out some children’s strength Gotta-HAVE-That cream while enjoying the ’70s throwback style!
Ouch Outline * 10.7 Falling off your shoe’s sole! When hiking, or sometimes simply walking, you can step just perfectly to allow your foot to twist and fall off your shoe, twisting your ankle and risking a serious injury. The best-case scenario is a sore ankle and embarrassment, but I’d risk the more serious outcome if I was able to rock the Historiques 222 while trekking!
Mermaid Moment * Look at that tiny little Maltese cross! It isn’t even a wonder why I fell head over heels for this watch, that tiny detail captured my heart on first sight!
Awesome Total * 855.33 Start with the caliber number (2455) and divide by the gold alloy number (3), and then add the diameter of the case (37) to land on a retrotastical awesome total!

For more information, please visit www.vacheron-constantin.com/ww/en/collections/historiques/4200.

Quick Facts Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222
Case: 37 x 7.95 mm, 3N yellow gold
Movement: automatic Caliber 2455/2, 40-hour power reserve, 28,800 vph/4Hz frequency
Functions: hours, minutes; date
Limitation: limited production, available only in Vacheron Constantin boutiques
Price: CHF 63,500 / €67,500