Credits: Article and images by Martin Green @ Quill & Pad. See the original article here - https://quillandpad.com/2023/07/26/martin-greens-top-ten-favorite-watches-of-only-watch-2023/
I wonder if Luc Pettavino had any idea in 2005 when he started with Only Watch, what an impact he would make with this project. In his fight against Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy, a genetic disease that progressively weakens the muscles, including the heart, and affects one in every 3,500 boys, he has raised over €100 million for scientific research.
An additional benefit is that some of the results of this research can also be used in the fight against other diseases.
In that light, what Pettavino has achieved in the watch world seems almost trivial. By auctioning off unique pieces explicitly made for Only Watch, he has given the brands a platform to go all in and all out. Many brands seize this opportunity to take their work to an even higher level, while collectors lust over the opportunity to own a unique watch from their favorite brands.
I am no exception and picking ten favorites feels like judging at the GPHG. So here we go, in no particular order, except for the last one, which is my absolute favorite!
Andersen Jumping Hours
Svend Andersen is the godfather of (independent) watchmaking, and he shows his considerable skill with this very understated Jumping Hours that he made for Only Watch. He has a special relationship with the cause, as he participated at the very first edition in 2005 in which his was the first lot to be auctioned. While his Jumping Hours is already incredible, it is the dial that makes this one extra special. A mere 0.4mm thick, and only 0.15mm at its thinnest point, it is made from jade with a black coating through which you can still see the veins of the stone. The case is platinum with a pink gold crown.
Andersen Genève: Jumping Hours Only Watch 2023
This watch is pure understatement! I don’t say it often, but this particular Andersen could very well be my ‘only watch.’ It is sophisticated, understated, but most of all, completely thought through in every detail, a display of true craftsmanship. However, despite the great passion that I feel for this timepiece, it is not my ultimate favorite of the bunch.
Estimate CHF 40,000 – 50,000
For more information, please visit www.onlywatch.com/andersen-gen%C3%A8ve
Biver Catharsis
Jean-Claude Biver and his son launched this brand under their own name earlier this year. While the opinions about these watches seem to vary, I like them. However, I like the model that they made for Only Watch even more. Catharsis is a minute repeater in its purest form, as the watch lacks hands on the front. To know the time, you either have to activate the minute repeater, which is the highly desirable carillon-kind, or look at the hour hand on the back.
Biver: Catharsis for Only Watch 2023
Experienced as he is, Biver knows which materials make a carrilon minute repeater sound best, so he opted for a titanium case. Apart from its complication, the movement also stands out for three other things; its tourbillon, a 72-hour power reserve, and a breathtaking finish. The dial shows a sea of blue sapphires, representing the sea, the top half a sunset represented by meteorite, silver obsidian, and opal.
To me, this watch perfectly brings together artistic crafts and fine watchmaking, and perhaps also gives us a glimpse of the future direction the Biver brand is heading.
Estimate CHF 500,000 – 700,000
For more information, please visit www.onlywatch.com/biver
De Bethune DW Seeking Perfect
Denis Flaegollet is a passionate man with many qualities. For De Bethune’s contribution to Only Watch 2023, he stepped outside of his manufacture and harvested iron ore from L’Auberson. This is worked into the case of the DW Seeking Perfect. The different metals have been forged into a damascuesque pattern, underscoring the unique nature of this De Bethune. Its organic shape remains mesmerizing, all the more when it is fitted on the wrist.
De Bethune: DW Seeking Perfect for Only Watch 2023
De Bethune wouldn’t be De Bethune if they didn’t also include many other details in this watch. The ‘dial’ is made from blued meteorite, it features a spherical moon also made from meteorite, and the crown is set with a blue sapphire cabochon. The movement is equipped with a self-regulating double barrel offering a power reserve of four days and features a tourbillon with a titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts. A watch collector’s dream.
Estimate CHF 220,000 – 270,000
For more information, please visit www.onlywatch.com/de-bethune
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Credits: Article and images by Martin Green @ Quill & Pad. See the original article here - https://quillandpad.com/2023/07/26/martin-greens-top-ten-favorite-watches-of-only-watch-2023/
