Credits: Article and images by Tim Mosso @ Quill & Pad. See the original article here - https://quillandpad.com/2023/12/14/patek-philippe-5002-sky-moon-tourbillon-the-most-complicated-wristwatch-produced-by-patek-philippe-reprise/
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There’s more – much more
The Sky Moon Tourbillon buries the lede by omitting its cathedral gong minute repeater from the name scheme. Patek Philippe’s modern reputation as a leader in chiming wristwatches largely is a product of the 1990s. It learned fast.
By 2001, Patek watchmakers were ready to embed high-grade wrist chiming within multiple layers of secondary complications. The quality of the sound was superb; each 5002P employs “cathedral” circular gongs that double around themselves 1.5 to 2 times when compared to the single-loop gong of a conventional minute repeater. These resonators defined the 38mm outer diameter of the movement and account for most of the 5002’s near-43mm size.
Extended gongs also help to counter the deadening effect of the 5002P’s platinum case. Sustain, sound quality, and chime volume benefit. Due to the larger suspended gong surface, the 5002’s cathedral gongs also counter the muting effect that blunts repeater sound when operated on the wrist. Later 5002 variants in rose, yellow, and – rarely — white gold benefitted from the same refinements.
In contrast, with its late-blooming fame as a constructor of repeating wristwatches, Patek Philippe’s notoriety for crafting perpetual calendars was decades in the making. Since the early 1940s debut of the 1526 perpetual calendar and the 1518 perpetual calendar chronograph, Patek has built its name as a premier source for watches that can navigate the Gregorian calendar.
That long-running renown might explain why a watch dubbed “Sky Moon Tourbillon” relegated those titular complications while handing dial-side preeminence to a perpetual calendar.
Nevertheless, the aesthetic of the 5002P dial is one of unexpected warmth for such an imposing machine. Guilloché in the form of small Calatrava crosses pays tribute to Patek Philippe’s corporate symbol.
Applied white gold Roman numerals and matching white gold hands add an opulent flourish atop the crème-tinted dial base. Moon phases are portrayed in gold slivers. And shocks of red distinguish the retrograde date display while enlivening the color palette.
Patek Philippe’s branding of the 5002P throws caution to the wind. The enormous vaulted “PATEK PHILIPPE GENEVE” ranks among the largest ever struck – and that includes pocket watches.
Each 5002 – regardless of metal – employs an elaborate set of circumferential engravings. A repeating Calatrava cross motif echoes the dial while girdling the 42.8mm case. The cross-festooned repeater slide sits within a recessed channel – an innovation often attributed to longtime Patek collaborator and case manufacturer Jean-Pierre Hagmann.
Although massive, the 5002P’s case is a nuanced brick of platinum. Its concave upper bezel includes inner and outer flanges that read as character lines. The lugs are stepped where they join the case, and the assembly method is by old-fashioned – and laborious – welding. Given this watch’s size, weight, and heart-stopping value, screws and bars replace spring bars as the chosen method of fixing the strap to the case.
Two crowns are present. The one at four o’clock sets the primary dial; the one at two sets the celestial dial.
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Credits: Article and images by Tim Mosso @ Quill & Pad. See the original article here - https://quillandpad.com/2023/12/14/patek-philippe-5002-sky-moon-tourbillon-the-most-complicated-wristwatch-produced-by-patek-philippe-reprise/