Thursday, February 9, 2023
WRIST NEWS
No Result
View All Result
  • Home
  • News
  • Reviews
  • Videos
  • Brands
    • Audemars Piguet
    • Bvlgari
    • Cartier
    • Hublot
    • Omega
    • Panerai
    • Patek Philippe
    • Pierre Gaston
    • Richard Mille
    • Rolex
    • Strumenti Nautici
    • Tag Heuer
    • Tokki Project
    • Ulysse Nardin
    • Zenith
  • Editor’s Pick
WRIST NEWS
  • Home
  • News
  • Reviews
  • Videos
  • Brands
    • Audemars Piguet
    • Bvlgari
    • Cartier
    • Hublot
    • Omega
    • Panerai
    • Patek Philippe
    • Pierre Gaston
    • Richard Mille
    • Rolex
    • Strumenti Nautici
    • Tag Heuer
    • Tokki Project
    • Ulysse Nardin
    • Zenith
  • Editor’s Pick
No Result
View All Result
WRIST NEWS
No Result
View All Result

Vintage Watch Restoration: Should You Or Not? A Guide To The Oft-Controversial World Of Making Things Worse By Trying To Make Them Better – Reprise

Ashton Tracy by Ashton Tracy
November 27, 2022
in Collectors and Collecting, Highlights, News, patina, Quill & Pad, Reviews, vintage, Vintage Watch Restoration, watch resoration
0
Home Collectors and Collecting

Credits:  Article and images by Ashton Tracy @ Quill & Pad.  See the original article here - https://quillandpad.com/2022/11/27/vintage-watch-restoration-should-you-or-not-a-guide-to-the-oft-controversial-world-of-making-things-worse-by-trying-to-make-them-better-reprise-5/

Going vintage: the Jaeger-LeCoultre Futurematic

GaryG’s vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre Futurematic

Even more confusing is deciding which options offered should be accepted.

RELATED POST

Cool Britannia – Ben Dunn of Watch Brothers London

Elizabeth Doerr Retires As Editor-In-Chief Of Quill & Pad

Refinish the case?

Change the hands?

Replace the crystal?

Replace damaged or broken components?

The questions seem endless, however being educated on the subject can remove most of the confusion shrouding the issue at hand.

Refinishing the case

We will get this one out of the way early as it is by far the most controversial: the general consensus in this area is don’t do it as polishing the case of a vintage timepiece is very likely to devalue it.

A. Lange & Söhne Double Split before refurbishment

A. Lange & Söhne Double Split before refurbishment

A. Lange & Söhne Double Split after refurbishment

A. Lange & Söhne Double Split after refurbishment

If you own a Paul Newman Rolex Daytona or a Milsub (nickname for a Rolex Submariner issued to British Royal Navy divers in the 1960s and 1970s), this is sound advice.

If you own a 1965 Omega Seamaster, it’s not as crucial as the watch isn’t really worth that much to begin with. So if you want it polished, go ahead.

Many collectors of fine vintage watches prefer them unpolished and original, thus rendering an unpolished example more valuable.

If you own a mid-level watch, say a vintage Rolex Submariner worth $7,000-$10,000, you need to consider the matter carefully. Why do you own the watch? Is it an investment or do you plan to wear the watch? Is it a family heirloom or are you hoping to sell it down the line?

All these questions come into play when considering refinishing.

Doubt? Don’t do it!

If in any doubt, don’t do it! You can always have it refinished later, but you can’t undo what has already been done.

If the decision is to refinish, it’s crucial to understand there are varying degrees of refinishing: some watchmakers are masters of their craft and others are hacks. So if you do decide to go the refinishing route, it is imperative you choose someone who knows what they are doing and has the correct machinery and equipment.

An expert watchmaker isn’t necessarily a master of refinishing, so look for an expert in the field.

The crystal

Some claim original crystals should be left as is, arguing the replacement can devalue the timepiece.

If a crystal is original and in working order, keeping the original will do no harm. However, the crystal is the first line of defense against the elements and if damaged should be replaced.

Ouchhh!!! This Rolex Submariner has seen better times

Ouchhh! This Rolex Submariner has seen better times

Replacing a damaged crystal with a correct, original crystal is good practice as it ensures the dial, hands, and movement are protected. Leaving a cracked or damaged crystal can allow moisture or dirt to enter, causing irreparable damage in some cases.

If that is allowed to happen, the value of the watch will certainly decline. Original crystals produced by the manufacturer must always be insisted upon to ensure the watch’s integrity and longevity as ill-fitting aftermarket components can cause compromise.

Water resistant gaskets

Similar to the crystal, gaskets are a crucial line of defense against the outside world.

Gaskets must always be changed when restoring a vintage watch as over time they can become brittle, crack, flatten, and – in some cases – turn to goo. Whether a gasket is compromised or not, replacement is always recommended.

Certain manufacturers employed lead gaskets in past times; if your watch is still fitted with such a gasket, changing for a new rubber gasket would be prudent to ensure the watch keeps the elements out.

Hands and dial: no compromise

Similar to refinishing, the value of the watch must be considered; however, deciding whether to keep original dials and hands is almost always an area of no compromise: original is best.

Original, age-appropriate dials and hands are where the money is as collectors always demand original patina.

Far too often we come across beautiful vintage pieces that have glaringly bright luminous markers radiating as if they were manufactured last week. And on occasion the dial is kept original with only the hands having been exchanged. This looks even worse!

LeCoultre Memodate from 1966

This vintage LeCoultre Memodate has had some very light work done to the hands to prevent further cracking of the tritium, preserving the integrity of the dial

Exchanging dial and hands doesn’t just drastically devalue the watch, it looks plain terrible and often times the dial and hands won’t be the original style – imagine a matte dial being exchanged for a glossy one.

If luminous paint is starting to crumble from the hands, exchanging them is not the only option. It would be more prudent to use a clear lacquer or nail polish to place a thin coating underneath the hands to ensure the integrity of the old luminous paint, ensuring the hands won’t deteriorate any further. Any competent, experienced watchmaker should be able to discuss that with you.

Movement parts

Worn movement parts must always be replaced to ensure your watch performs as intended.

Changing out for original, factory produced parts or having components manufactured by hand if these are no longer available has no bearing on the value of the watch. If worn components are left to decay then further damage is likely.

If one were to leave a cut axle, for example, it would cause the watch to not function as intended and possibly deteriorate faster, causing damage to other components and seriously impacting the value and function if those parts cannot be purchased or replicated.

Bezel, crown, and pushers

The bezel is an area of a vintage watch that can have a considerable impact on value. Collectors do prefer original, especially some GMT, dive, or tachymeter bezels.

Similar to dial and hands, I would suggest maintaining the original as far as possible as certain vintage watches can be seen as worthless in the eyes of collectors if not accompanied by original bezels.

Vintage Jaeger

A vintage Jaeger “Panda dial 4 ATM” with intact bezel

The crown and chronograph pushers are another area in which the collector prefers original, but badly damaged parts need to be looked at carefully. Similar to the crystal, these components ensure the integrity of the watch so if the decision is to keep the original, endeavoring to change the gaskets in these items would be wise, ensuring the watch stays as sealed as possible.

If the original parts are exchanged for modern examples, ensuring that the old parts are given back to you is prudent.

The most crucial component: the watchmaker

The final area may be the most crucial: choosing a competent, experienced watchmaker.

Whether the decision is to use the manufacturer or an independent repairer, find out ahead of time whether they understand the process of restoration. Always make sure to ask questions so you can understand their stances on restoration and ensure they are happy to follow your wishes.

Don’t allow anyone to pressure you into changing something just because they say it needs it. Find out why they want it changed and make your own informed decision.

There are some areas that won’t be up for debate as most independent watchmakers and manufacturers will not perform partial repairs, especially on a vintage watch. This ensures the watch will be working as intended and isn’t a point that should be argued – with the same being true for damaged crystals, gaskets, and movement parts.

Refinishing of the case and bracelet or exchanging dial and hands, bezel, crystal, or pushers should however always be the customer’s choice.

Ultimately, the decision is yours

All of the above decisions are ultimately yours to make, and if you decide you want everything exchanged for brand-new versions, then go ahead.

The crucial thing is to ensure you understand exactly what you are doing and if you are fully aware that replacing certain parts will dramatically reduce the value of your watch in some cases.

If you do, there is no issue: exchange away.

Far too often, however, we see people making uninformed decisions about vintage watches and seriously regretting it later down the line.

Having a vintage watch restored can be stressful and confusing, but it doesn’t have to be as long as you keep the above factors in mind to understand the process.

* This article was first published on May 1, 2018 at Vintage Watch Restoration: Should You Or Not? A Guide To The Oft-Controversial World Of Making Things Worse By Trying To Make Them Better.

You may also enjoy:

A Contemporary Watch Collector Goes Vintage

Vintage Watch Snobbery Or How I Met Your Mother

Fauxtina: A Faux Vintage Faux Pas

First Rolex GMT-Master, Reference 6542, And Why The Gold Version Is Much More Desirable

Book Review: ‘Chasing Time’ By Alistair Gibbons, A Compendium Of Vintage Watches

Credits:  Article and images by Ashton Tracy @ Quill & Pad.  See the original article here - https://quillandpad.com/2022/11/27/vintage-watch-restoration-should-you-or-not-a-guide-to-the-oft-controversial-world-of-making-things-worse-by-trying-to-make-them-better-reprise-5/

Tags: Collectors and CollectingHighlightsNewspatinaReviewsvintageVintage Watch Restorationwatch resoration
ShareTweetShare

Related Posts

Cool Britannia – Ben Dunn of Watch Brothers London
Cool Britannia

Cool Britannia – Ben Dunn of Watch Brothers London

February 8, 2023
Elizabeth Doerr Retires As Editor-In-Chief Of Quill & Pad
Elizabeth Doerr

Elizabeth Doerr Retires As Editor-In-Chief Of Quill & Pad

February 8, 2023
The World‘s First Pilot’s Watch: Cartier Santos-Dumont 1904 To 2018 – Reprise
Cartier

The World‘s First Pilot’s Watch: Cartier Santos-Dumont 1904 To 2018 – Reprise

February 8, 2023
Introducing the Méraud Antigua
2023 Novelties

Introducing the Méraud Antigua

February 8, 2023
Introducing the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph “Panda”
2023 Novelties

Introducing the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph “Panda”

February 7, 2023
Accurate to a T
2023 Novelties

Accurate to a T

February 7, 2023
Next Post
C by Romain Gauthier: A Continuum of Lifelong Learning

C by Romain Gauthier: A Continuum of Lifelong Learning

ABOUT US

Bringing you the latest wristwatch news from the world's most reliable sources.

Follow us

RECENT NEWS

  • Cool Britannia – Ben Dunn of Watch Brothers London
  • Elizabeth Doerr Retires As Editor-In-Chief Of Quill & Pad
  • The World‘s First Pilot’s Watch: Cartier Santos-Dumont 1904 To 2018 – Reprise
  • Introducing the Méraud Antigua

QUICK LINKS

  • Home
  • News
  • Reviews
  • Videos

NEWSLETTER

Subscribe to our newsletter and get the best news directly to your inbox.

*We hate spam as you do.

  • Advertise
  • Privacy Policy
  • Terms & Conditions
  • Contact

WristNews © 2017 - 2022. All rights reserved.

No Result
View All Result
  • Home
  • News
  • Reviews
  • Videos
  • Brands
    • Audemars Piguet
    • Bvlgari
    • Cartier
    • Hublot
    • Omega
    • Panerai
    • Patek Philippe
    • Pierre Gaston
    • Richard Mille
    • Rolex
    • Strumenti Nautici
    • Tag Heuer
    • Tokki Project
    • Ulysse Nardin
    • Zenith
  • Editor’s Pick

WristNews © 2017 - 2022. All rights reserved.